sailtexas186548

I went all airex pxc in my build, it’s $500 more than wood (maybe less). I would go composite if u can

outonsafari

Ive read on here that regular ply can be made with glue that doesnt play well with resin.
by me 3/4 marine ply is 99 bucks its void free thruout and sanded on both sides.

i have a 2x4 piece of 3/4 marine ply leftover, its used as a makeshift workbench, it gets drilled ground cut oil and rained on for 4 years now and its still arrow straight tough as nails and not all wiggly and rotted around the edges.

bet you could do it in 2 pieces left and right half lapped 6 inches up the center, it would be easier to handle fit and bond in.
dont have to tell ya but id also bet glass dave would be happy to advise you on a material list and plan of attack.

Rookie

After more searching I think I have found my answer.

outonsafari

Thats some good news, when are you gonna cut out the wood and start grinding?

I feel your pain, i just wrapped up the worst part of that job, cut out all bad wood, so, all the wood ! and ground down to the woven.
something like 40 pounds of fiberglass dust was swept up and weighed. Have around 200 pics of the insanity.
stringers all glassed back in and ready for floor, all the remaining grinding is a cake walk no more all day in a tyvek suit.

you'll get there and it'll be great, start a rebuild thread

Rookie

Should be going to the glass guy this weekend. I removed all that I could for him.

MacNeeseCowboys73

I just got a 88' Panther, (my first boat) I can feel some significant rot inside the drain hole. Im concerned but idk how concerned I should be. Have you experienced anything like that on your Panther?

Rookie

My Panther is pretty solid in the transom. The level of severity is something that is hard to judge over the internet. I ran this rotted transom all of 2019. (not realizing how bad it really was) If you take it to a glass guy and of course it will be bad and you need a whole new transom. With your drives trimmed up a bit, if you pull up and down on the drive do you see the transom flexing? I bought a Home Depot moisture meter and it jived with my friends professional survey in the same areas. I would get one and check the back of the hull. If you don't trust the readings you will at the least see variations in moisture. Lets say near the drain it 23% and above the tabs 16% you will be able to get somewhat of an idea as to how wet and where the moisture is. Pull off the exhaust pipes and see if there is rot in the holes. You also have to look at it as there are tens of thousands of boats out there with wet/moist transoms that aren't failing. You just need to determine the severity. After seeing mine, it appears that they can be run totally rotted, but safely I don't believe this one was.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...-MM8/205519129

MacNeeseCowboys73

Ya i don't see any flex, so I think I'm ok for now, I just need to keep monitoring it. Thanks man

Rookie

A little progress on the transom.

MooresWarlock

Hang In There!!!!! I just finished doing the same process on my 29 Profile -

Got lucky as it was Balsa Core - easier to remove


Ready to re-cut Bravo One Keyholes