Poorsche

I'm going thru the boat fixing stuff that's been causing me trouble and one is the drinking/fresh water system.

They used that polybutylene semi-rigid pipe with those bizarre fittings that are nearly impossible to replace. I want to replace the tubing that goes from the pump/water tank back to the sink at the bar. Does anybody know where that pipe runs? How big is the "chase" it's in? Am I taking on a stupid project I'll wish I'd never started?

offthefront

could you convert from the old pipe to newer ? .. at the tank/pump convert to copper or whatever and also at the sink ? that way you wouldn't have to pull new pipe ....I would think that would be close to impossible ...

Poorsche

The installed stuff is what used to be used in mobile homes and they tell me there aren't any adapters to go from that tube to "real" fittings with hose barbs. It's an odd size and the ferrles and compression-like fittings are unique--so the old guy at Ace Hardware told me. Apperntly if you do try to use pvc or brass plumbing fittings you can't get a seal that's airtight and the pump pressure sensor won't work. That's whats going on now--pump wont stop running.

The weather tomorrow here is goning to be crappy so I'll put the boat on a work rack and fish around and see what I find.

Ted G

You may be able to get the stuff you need at West Marine-ask for "Whale" fitttings, they work with PB tubing.

QUIKDECISION

Poorsche,
I went through this with my Dad's RV. I found that our local RV dealer had fittings that could adapt to an "unusual size". This allowed us to go with more conventional or readily available plumbing parts. They had a plastic pipe that would not burst if water within froze. The prices were fairly reasonable... considering anything recreational is generally outrageously priced anyway. Hope you find what you need.

f311fr1

Our local Lowe's or Home Depot carried these weird fittings when I put hot water in my Black Thunder. Joe Murray

Poorsche

I was at Lowes today adn got a few fitting that look like they'' work. The inside angle on the fittings seems "shallower" than the parts currently installed but I got them anyway. THe wind was blowing 14-16 all day so I didn't put the boat in the water to even look at how the rigid stuff gets from the tank under the v-berth to the sink mid-ships. There is a 4" hole in the bulkhead where the tubing heads back-so I'm hoping there is a chase of some kind but haven't been able to lokk yet.

Maybe one night this week it will be decent and I'll take the day off and find out the "mystery" here.

Poorsche

I just got an email with possible details about fresh water system on SR357. The info looks like a great start and I'll get to validate it tomorrow--

Here's what they said for anyone else interested. Those guys in the Tech Support group always find good answers on an "old" boat. I appreciate it too.

The 357 fuel/wiring/plumbing diagrams were pretty vague. I have attached the diagram from a ’91 336 which looks similar to what I going to try to explain.

You will need to pull the cushion in the V-Berth area to expose the access panels to the water tank. That water line runs up the port side wall and behind the port side seat backrest. You will need to remove the backrest as well. If you look behind the backrest at the top you should see four screws that secure it. Once you remove the backrest you will then be able to see the water line and that it runs into the cabinet below the sink. Below the sink the water line runs into a t-fitting (may be covered by ozite or felt looking material).

The water line continues from this t-fitting towards the aft end of the boat behind the refrigerator. There should be four plastic like plugs on the front of the refrigerator, which when remove should allow you to remove the refrigerator.

I’m not sure if this is going to help, but let me know if you have any more questions.

Formula Boats

Customer Support

Bill272

That diagram is exactly the way my 95 336 is. I replaced the water pump but now the accumulator tank or a fitting on one side of it leaks. I guess I'll add it to the spring projects since it would be nice to be able to use the transom shower.

Poorsche

I've talked to a few people--some are live-aboards--and they are saying I don't need the accumulator with just a sink and a wash-down hose in cockpit. One guy had two sinks, shower, head and wash-down with no accumulator and no problems. Supposedly they eliminate pulsing but whith the little use my water system gets that's not an issue. THe thing seems like just one more PITA and they cost from $35 to $60.

The one that's in there now doesn't seem to have a bladder in it and I can't see how it adds any value so I'm going to see how things work without it.