QUIKDECISION

Well, Outlaw and I had been exchanging some info Re: locating the axles on my trailer & info on my tow vehicle. In that thread I had been discussing that I intended to rebuild the engines' on our 311 and now my son and I were able to remove the arch, we were able to squeeze the boat into our garage.
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QUIKDECISION

I had to modify the opening in the ceiling to allow the chain falls to mount higher to obtain the necessary clearance. Removing the drive was really easy. We removed the lower unit 1st, subsequently the upper section.
We pulled all of the periphrial items such as wiring, alternator and power steering bracket(s) and exhaust. Subsequently the intake and heads. We were so anxious to get this accomplished that we did not do a good job of taking pics at the appropriate times. We have some shots of the engine out and the aftermath of the vacant side of the bilge...
Brace yourself if you find "dirty" pictures offensive.

QUIKDECISION

So, after setting the engine on the concrete and wood blocks, we unhooked the rear chains, removed the bell-housing, flywheel etc. and hooked the chain-falls back so we could finally attach the block to the engine stand. We rolled the engine into the back bay and began the tear down. Since the exhaust, intake and heads were removed, prior to engine extraction, there was only the oil pan, harmonic balancer, timing cover, cam, cam chain, pistons/rods and crank to pull. It seemed like we were on easy street and that we would have that all done in a couple of hours. So our first problem was removal of the harmonic balancer. I have a nice puller,
it would not budge. I had to heat it up pretty good until it finally came. I ran into several external bolts here and there,
such as: the timing cover, motor mounts etc. I have a penetrating oil called KROIL... This stuff is magic... I think it works better than PB blaster, and PB blaster is good stuff...
Anyway, we now have the engine completely torn down and
and I have some decisions ( not Quikdecisions) to make.
I was hoping to not have to bore the engine nor purchase new pistons... ( taste for liquor and pocketbook for beer ) The bores do not look all that bad, but I do not yet have the equipment to measure the piston to cylinder wall clearances.
I know that since these are forged pistons, they grow once warmed up. If I use a feeler gage, there is definitely more clearance opposite the wrist pins. This suggests an egg or elliptical wear pattern. Likely, I will have to have the block bored... And thus... the second engine, not yet pulled out, will also have to be bored. We have approx 670 hrs on the engines. I solicit all suggestions / advice as to what I should do. I plan to thoroughly clean the block, esp the water jacket.
Next step will be to go to the machine shop for boiling, cam bearings and frost plug replacement... I will solicit their advice on how to proceed as well.

QUIKDECISION

More pics..

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And some more...

QUIKDECISION

My intention is to somewhat build this up using HP-500 goodies. I.E. hp-500 heads, cams, roller lifters, roller rockers.
I have acquired heads, cams, roller rockers and 1 set of roller-lifters. I plan to use Morel roller lifters for the 2nd engine.
Gaskets, water and fuel pumps and revolution marine exhaust. Freshen the starters....
I have to get rings, bearings and the 2nd set of roller lifters... and likely pistons. Last time I priced boring it was $40.00 per cylinder... Whew.... this is a pricey game.... I hope I didn't bore you to death with all of this. My apologies if i have...
Any comments/feedback are appreciated.
Doug

QUIKDECISION

After reading the above, I failed to mention that the engines are 454 / 365 hp magnum motors. They have forged pistons and crank. The heads are rectangular ports. The heads had been replaced the year before last, and had only 30 hrs or so.
I went with the newer heads ( Gen 6 ) since I believed they had larger valves. It appears that my old heads ( replacements) had the larger valves... Oh well, two sets will likely have to go, that should get my pistons and partially pay for the boring should I need to go that route.

Formula Outlaw

Personally I think it looks MUCH better without the arch.




























































































































now about that silent thunder box...........

f311fr1

Are you sure that GENVI heads will work on GENIV blocks? Bore 30 over for nice 468" package. Use good pistons. I have 15 std bore stock forged pistons you can have if they would do you any good. You might want to get new balancers. I put B&M 250's with single Nickerson dominator and Gil's on my 468's and flew my 311 @ 87 MPH on GPS. You will need to look into external steering from Marine Machine, IMCO, ect. GOOD LUCK, Joe Murray

Poorsche

Keep the diarey (SP?) going. I'm hoping I can get thru this summer and I need to do do same project next winter. Hopefully you're keeping a spreadheet on costs in additiont to narrative and pics about job.

THanks a lot