FormulaM2Formula

Here's a pic of taken the transom plate through the access hole on the side of the stellings extension box. As you can see, I could raise the boxes up 2 holes (2") but the transom plate which remains stationary will interfere with the drive shaft as it move up. I'm thinking an air powered reciprocating saw will cut the top half of the drive shaft hoop right off the plate and then I can raise the boxes.

You know it's getting serious when you start cuttin'.

Notice the small cable zip tied to the drive lube monitor hose. That's my new ground strap. I'd taken more pics of it, but ground straps are a little on the boring side.

Garrett

PhantomChaos

What's with all the rust?

FormulaM2Formula

The drive shafts have minor surface rust on them as they aren't painted or coated with anything. I sprayed them down with WD-40 before putting the covers back on.

Garrett

RedDog382

Garrett,

Grabbed some pics for you today for comparison. Box is set 3" above the radius where bottom notch and transom blend. Mine are set to middle hole:

RedDog382

There is no bracing around the shaft on my transom plate:

FormulaM2Formula

Thanks a lot for the pics and measurement!!! My boxes are 3/4" above the notch and is mounted in the top hole (lowest setting). So If I moved them up two holes it would be 2 3/4" from the notch. I'm assuming the holes are 1" apart, but I don't remember if I actually measured them or not. Formula indicated that they mounted the drives on a Stellings equipped boat 1.5" higher. This all seems to at least be in the general ballpark since your drives are 2 1/4" higher than mine.

Have you ever tried raising your drives to the highest setting?

I've been kicking around the idea of buying some IMCO shorty lowers or some BMAX Crescent lowers that are 2" shorter, and then raising the box 1" at a time if the result with the shorty's is good. Do you know anyone that has tried this?

The other thing I could do is just raise the boxes two notches and see what happens.

I do have an air powered reciprocating saw on order to modify the transom plates.

Thanks again for the pics!

Garrett

PhantomChaos

My boat is on the dry stack an hour away, but I found a photo of my rear-end that showed the mounting height.......

JUKED YOU

Phantom, those angle cut tips with the polished rings look good on there...

Audiofn

Norts set up is a very good one. Boat is SUPER stable and does not do any funny stuff, well as long as you keep the tabs up and the drives up in a fallowing see RIGHT NORT!!!! I think Pam is still drying off from that run LOL Ummmm we are on Dock 34 ok how about 56? 132? Guess it is hard to zoom a car race while in a boat!!!!

Jon

RedDog382

Garrett


Glad to help you with the pics.

I have not tried raising my drive height. I think Formula has experimented a lot and acheived the optimal X-dimension on the 382. I'm afraid planing would become very difficult (these are heavy battlewagons to get moving) and I run in some high pitched irregular wave patterns on Lake Erie and Lake St. Clair. I think it would be hard to keep the props hooked up if raised any higher.

You might want to consider some kind of coating on the transom plates after you cut them. Once you break the powdercoat barrier, they will begin to corrode quickly in the exposed areas.

Chris