My new project - 86 - 272 LS
04-26-2013, 10:04 PM
#253
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Dizzy, I had to write all the motor information down in a journal just to keep it straight! But after seeing the dyno results that John got, it set me back on a long term goal plan.
John, if I do go to bravo's, I am calling you first to educate me on Bravo's and what not to buy! I'll copy your motors and then copy your drive info! I'll have it all except the freeboard! ha ha ha.
John, if I do go to bravo's, I am calling you first to educate me on Bravo's and what not to buy! I'll copy your motors and then copy your drive info! I'll have it all except the freeboard! ha ha ha.
04-26-2013, 10:42 PM
#254
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Speaking of Bravo's...we read a lot about 'Take it easy and the Alphas will work well behind Big Blocks." I was in my riggers shop this afternoon and there was a nice '84 Formula Three 22'-6" with a 330 HP 454 in front of an Alpha. the owner was looking at my 255 and was quizzing me about the conversion. I asked him why he was there..."Oh...this will be my 4th Alpha Swap in 6 months!!"...he added "Main shafts and upper gears...I've done two of each".
He is doing it one more time but while he's waiting on number 4 to fail he's gathering parts to upgrade to Bravo. His failures have all happened when he had 3 or more people on the boat and Sea Tow was his salvation....sort of ruined the day though. Now he can't get anyone to go out with him.
He is doing it one more time but while he's waiting on number 4 to fail he's gathering parts to upgrade to Bravo. His failures have all happened when he had 3 or more people on the boat and Sea Tow was his salvation....sort of ruined the day though. Now he can't get anyone to go out with him.
04-29-2013, 03:22 PM
#256
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Well this week I am concentrating on the trailer again. Tell you what, it was a "bit" scary suspending the boat from three points. Straps over the building beams and three - 4000 pound come-alongs lifting it up. I ended up being a bit of a chicken in the end and putting the floor jack on the transom to help lift the back. Just made me a little easier.
I am going to pull the trailer out (loadrite) and take the rollers off of it. I am going to go with a tilting bunk design for now. One, it seems like it would give good bunk support since they can pivot to match the hull, and two, it will be easy! I just remove the wheel carriages from the pivot bars, build brackets and mount the lumber. Well, it sounds easy any ways.
The picture below is of the same trailer as mine but with the bunks added (found this pic on the internet, no idea who's it is, post was from MN). I think my bunk attachment will be a bit more robust, but the idea is the same.
Tomorrow I will put some blocks under the boat for safety and pull the trailer out from under it! Then the fun begins.
Brian
I am going to pull the trailer out (loadrite) and take the rollers off of it. I am going to go with a tilting bunk design for now. One, it seems like it would give good bunk support since they can pivot to match the hull, and two, it will be easy! I just remove the wheel carriages from the pivot bars, build brackets and mount the lumber. Well, it sounds easy any ways.
The picture below is of the same trailer as mine but with the bunks added (found this pic on the internet, no idea who's it is, post was from MN). I think my bunk attachment will be a bit more robust, but the idea is the same.
Tomorrow I will put some blocks under the boat for safety and pull the trailer out from under it! Then the fun begins.
Brian
04-30-2013, 02:56 PM
#257
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Trailer bunk questions:
Well, pulled the trailer out from under the boat today and is that a weird feeling! Get out of the truck and there is the boat floating in the air with the stern secured and the nose just hanging from a wire. Nervous - nervous! All of the roller assemblies came of really easy. All the bolts came loose except for one on removing hardware also! Got the cross members moved up as far as they would go and it looks like it will work well.
OK, so now getting ready to add the bunks to my trailer. Going with 2x6 lumber that will be fully supported by 3" x 5" square steel tubing, so plenty strong.
From the picture, I have two options I see.
Option 1, I move the bunk inboard a bit to get the full bunk inside the strake and mount it at a 24 degree slope to match hull.
Option 2 is I keep the bunk flat and let the inside corner of the bunk match up with the inside corner where the strake meets the hull. That way the boat is actually sitting on the strake. I can rip the inside corner of the 2x6 at the 24 degree angle so it sits on the strake and about 2" on the hull itself. I think this would help keep the strake from catching one bunk and pulling the boat to the side when loading. If I go this route, I will double up the 2x6 so there is not a thin edge where the board is chamfered.
I also have pretty good side locators on the trailer, so lining up the hull should go well.
Also going to post this in the trailer section for a larger audience, but always value the experience of the fellow bird heads.
What are others thoughts?
Brian
Well, pulled the trailer out from under the boat today and is that a weird feeling! Get out of the truck and there is the boat floating in the air with the stern secured and the nose just hanging from a wire. Nervous - nervous! All of the roller assemblies came of really easy. All the bolts came loose except for one on removing hardware also! Got the cross members moved up as far as they would go and it looks like it will work well.
OK, so now getting ready to add the bunks to my trailer. Going with 2x6 lumber that will be fully supported by 3" x 5" square steel tubing, so plenty strong.
From the picture, I have two options I see.
Option 1, I move the bunk inboard a bit to get the full bunk inside the strake and mount it at a 24 degree slope to match hull.
Option 2 is I keep the bunk flat and let the inside corner of the bunk match up with the inside corner where the strake meets the hull. That way the boat is actually sitting on the strake. I can rip the inside corner of the 2x6 at the 24 degree angle so it sits on the strake and about 2" on the hull itself. I think this would help keep the strake from catching one bunk and pulling the boat to the side when loading. If I go this route, I will double up the 2x6 so there is not a thin edge where the board is chamfered.
I also have pretty good side locators on the trailer, so lining up the hull should go well.
Also going to post this in the trailer section for a larger audience, but always value the experience of the fellow bird heads.
What are others thoughts?
Brian
04-30-2013, 07:53 PM
#258
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Brian I did the same thing a few years ago but stood up two 2 by 10 on each side and keel support I will try to find the tread. You are right rollers stink.
04-30-2013, 09:12 PM
#259
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http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...r-project.html
So it rides well from your statement. Outside flat section sits on strakes, sloped inner part rides on hull deadrise. I will do that on the rear setup. Thanks for bringing this up again...
I think it hit 80 degrees here today, getting the itch now! Camper came home tonight so we will be camping next week sometime!
Brian
05-01-2013, 12:20 PM
#260
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Platinum MemberJoin Date: Jan 2013
Location: Atchison, Ks
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That's how I redone my bunks on the back of my trailer!! I used 6x6's and angled the first inch of the top inside corners. Then I added 2 more bunks from midway up the trailer for about 10' for the very bottom of the bow to rest in and guide it on the trailer!!! It rides great!!! I've pulled it about 1000 miles so far no trouble!!! I welded all supports solid no bunk movement !!
