zog02

I have an 89 223LS. I recently pulled her out of storage for the winter and noticed that the bilge pump and blowers are not working. The depth sounder and all the lights are working properly. The stereo also works fine. I noticed that the fuses for everything but the blowers, bilge and stereo memory are under the drivers console. The fuses for the blowers and bilge pump are under the bench seat. They are the old type fuses. (The round ones that you push in) I don't know how to remove them to check them. Do you just pull them out?

My question is basically why are my bilge pump and blowers not working? I imagine its something do with the fuses because they are the only two together. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!!

Audiofn

You can get a test light or multi meter. That is the easiest way to check. See if you have power on one side but not the other.

Jon

Formula Outlaw

Like Jon said, just run a "continuity test".

zog02

Thank you for the replies. Every little bit helps me right now. I am going to admit right upfront that an electrician I am not. I pulled the pannel off today and behind it are white boxes with wires attached to them. I am assuming these are breakers? Do I just take the tester and hook it to the two wires coming in from each side? If I push the "button" in, it will stay in but the blowers or bilge will not work. I have looked at the original wiring diagrams with and only become more confused. If anyone knows what could possibly cause my blowers and bilge pump to stop working please let me know.

Audiofn

If you are not familiar with this stuff you may want to have a pro do the work. I know it can suck to puy but it may be in your and your family's best interest. You may need that bilge pump and you definatly have to run your blower before every start up so.... The way that a test light works is to put the one lead on ground that end ussually has a clip on it. The other end with the handle and light is ussually sharp. You push that up against things you think have power and if there is power the light will light up. Warning, I know you are working on a boat but if you ever work on a car with air bags you need a special test light!!! What you need to do is to test all the places that you think need power and make sure that you have it. Your problem could be in the dash switch or a number of other locations however...... Very hard if not impossible to track down if you do not know how. If you do it is a snap.... Carefull poking holes in the wire jacket as once you open that up you can cause the wire to prematurely corrode.

Jon

HiPerf2000

I had the glass type fuses that you have on my old formula. They would constantly get corroded and stop making contact. You can just grab a hold of them and pull them out (sometimes twisting as you pull makes it easier). What i would have to do is get a piece of emery or scotchbrite, and scuff up the fuse contacts and the contacts on the panel. You can also just slap a new fuse in at that point, but i would recommend hitting the panel with the emery to clean up the contacts.

Poorsche

I've got and 87 SR357 and the devices under the bench seat are circuit breakers--from your description I think that's what you have also.

Call Formula Customer Service--they will verify for your boat. I've gotten some great detailed answers from them about some really off-the-wall problems my boats given me.

I had to replace that entire circuit breaker panel because the terminals and the screws/nuts and the ends of the wires had been "terminated' as a result of corrosion. The breakers are a little dated but available from some marine salvage kind of places. For instance Marine Liquidators in Ft. Pierce FL.

Audiofn

You can get most breakers from Boat US or West Marine also.

Jon

Iggy

Yours, like mine, were made by E-T-A Circuit Breakers. These breakers are Mil Spec/Aircraft type push to reset. They are a little pricey to replace. I recall something like 40-60.00+ each from a local electronic component distributor.
To be sure you get the correct replacment, pull out the bad breakers and note the part number on the side.

http://www.etacbe.com/n_america/e-t-...eframeset.html

zog02

Iggy...your exactly right. I looked at that website and my breakers are the 412's. I am going out and check the wiring right now. I have a about 8 accessories breakers that are not in use so I am hoping I can just take one of them and replace the bad ones vice buying all new ones. We will have to see. Thanks again for all the replies....I love this site.