Air conditioning install on 38 need help!
#11
Ginger or Mary Ann?
![](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/images/icons/charter_member_star.gif)
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Indy,
yep $1000 should get you there. The on lift running just requires a little modification and placement for the thru hull. I just upgraded to a larger pump because I am also running the condensator, which affects the pump. Just decided it wasn't worth the hassle to use the included pump, only to have to change it over once i tried it out. Now there is no question if it will work. For regular applications, the included pump is fine.
RAF, if you look at post #4, you will see the 2) 4" round ducts I installed above the electrical panel. In your application, same as my original plan, was to go thru the left side of the a/c location storage, thru the hollow cavity next to it, then ran up underneath the backrest of the side lounge, then into the side of the cabinet. Did think of installing 1 duct in the bedding area, but was adviced it would be to cold, so nixed that idea. Specs for that unit call for minimum of 2) 4" ducts, with the 1st one being no more than 5 feet from the unit. Both of those have to be the full open type, not with the dampner to close it off. It effects the air flow thru the evaporator and can freeze it up. Now if you have more than 2 ducts, then 1 of them can be the closable type. They are rotatable, so I'll just point them away from where I don't want direct air flow. The 5' rule is not a set in stone though, just the perfect situation. (I talked with the Mermaid tech guy) You just don't want a 300' run. Best setup is with return down low, and supply ducts at top away from the return. But since we have Fountains, I don't see a big issue here with teh low headroom. A buddy had one installed a couple yrs ago with his return and supply both on the floor and just a couple feet apart. Not the best setup, but it works fine. I hated to loose the coolor just because it was there, but we never used it any ways.
The install isn't really that bad if you don't mind working at it and have the mechanical thinkings. Just gotta think ahead of of how the duct will be ran, and see if there are any stringers or bulkheads that need to be cut thru (which may require an access hole cut thru the seat flooring or bed base) to work within that cavity. My layout just required none of those. Just my preference.
BTW. The WM clearance price is the best I have ever seen. You can also save the approx $50 shipping to your house cost if you have it shipped to your local WM store. Don't forget to use your WM rewards card. It's enough to get another $20 or so credit. Piddly amounts, but what the heck.
yep $1000 should get you there. The on lift running just requires a little modification and placement for the thru hull. I just upgraded to a larger pump because I am also running the condensator, which affects the pump. Just decided it wasn't worth the hassle to use the included pump, only to have to change it over once i tried it out. Now there is no question if it will work. For regular applications, the included pump is fine.
RAF, if you look at post #4, you will see the 2) 4" round ducts I installed above the electrical panel. In your application, same as my original plan, was to go thru the left side of the a/c location storage, thru the hollow cavity next to it, then ran up underneath the backrest of the side lounge, then into the side of the cabinet. Did think of installing 1 duct in the bedding area, but was adviced it would be to cold, so nixed that idea. Specs for that unit call for minimum of 2) 4" ducts, with the 1st one being no more than 5 feet from the unit. Both of those have to be the full open type, not with the dampner to close it off. It effects the air flow thru the evaporator and can freeze it up. Now if you have more than 2 ducts, then 1 of them can be the closable type. They are rotatable, so I'll just point them away from where I don't want direct air flow. The 5' rule is not a set in stone though, just the perfect situation. (I talked with the Mermaid tech guy) You just don't want a 300' run. Best setup is with return down low, and supply ducts at top away from the return. But since we have Fountains, I don't see a big issue here with teh low headroom. A buddy had one installed a couple yrs ago with his return and supply both on the floor and just a couple feet apart. Not the best setup, but it works fine. I hated to loose the coolor just because it was there, but we never used it any ways.
The install isn't really that bad if you don't mind working at it and have the mechanical thinkings. Just gotta think ahead of of how the duct will be ran, and see if there are any stringers or bulkheads that need to be cut thru (which may require an access hole cut thru the seat flooring or bed base) to work within that cavity. My layout just required none of those. Just my preference.
BTW. The WM clearance price is the best I have ever seen. You can also save the approx $50 shipping to your house cost if you have it shipped to your local WM store. Don't forget to use your WM rewards card. It's enough to get another $20 or so credit. Piddly amounts, but what the heck.
![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 01-20-2007 at 09:55 AM.
#13
Ginger or Mary Ann?
![](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/images/icons/charter_member_star.gif)
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your welcome. Got your PM. I don't know all, but can tell you what I have ran into or what worked just from my install.
My remaining parts came in yesterday (strainer, valve and fittings) so now I'm left with the hardest part, drilling THE hole.![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Good Luck
My remaining parts came in yesterday (strainer, valve and fittings) so now I'm left with the hardest part, drilling THE hole.
![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Good Luck
#17
21 and 42 footers
![](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/images/icons/platinum_member_star.gif)
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you'd need a 2000W inverter at minimum. One battery 2-3 hours, 2 batteries about 5 hours. Might get a little more if the cabin starts off cool already. If you fire it up after being on the water all day I'm pretty close.
#19
Registered User
![](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/images/icons/platinum_member_star.gif)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: West Hills, CA & Lake Havasu
Posts: 557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I installed A/C in a 28' Campbell flybridge about 20 years ago. I used an automotive compressor on the port engine, turned around backwards (compressors can turn either direction and work ok, just like an alternator does). I used an automotive evaporator in the cabin built into a cabinet, and a 3 ton water cooled heat exchanger, copper tube in tube with a 12 volt centrificul pump (mounted in the bilge, below the water line since they are not self priming). That boat had a lot of glass in the cabin and I was able to maintain 72 degrees in the cabin when it was 112 degrees outside at Lake Havasu.
David Kahn
Kahn Air Conditioning Inc.
Northridge, CA
#20
Registered User
![](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/images/icons/gold_member_star.gif)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: prince george,va
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would think that the temperature split would be much better since you are water cooled. I would guess that you would see 30+ degrees across the coil.
I installed A/C in a 28' Campbell flybridge about 20 years ago. I used an automotive compressor on the port engine, turned around backwards (compressors can turn either direction and work ok, just like an alternator does). I used an automotive evaporator in the cabin built into a cabinet, and a 3 ton water cooled heat exchanger, copper tube in tube with a 12 volt centrificul pump (mounted in the bilge, below the water line since they are not self priming). That boat had a lot of glass in the cabin and I was able to maintain 72 degrees in the cabin when it was 112 degrees outside at Lake Havasu.
David Kahn
Kahn Air Conditioning Inc.
Northridge, CA
I installed A/C in a 28' Campbell flybridge about 20 years ago. I used an automotive compressor on the port engine, turned around backwards (compressors can turn either direction and work ok, just like an alternator does). I used an automotive evaporator in the cabin built into a cabinet, and a 3 ton water cooled heat exchanger, copper tube in tube with a 12 volt centrificul pump (mounted in the bilge, below the water line since they are not self priming). That boat had a lot of glass in the cabin and I was able to maintain 72 degrees in the cabin when it was 112 degrees outside at Lake Havasu.
David Kahn
Kahn Air Conditioning Inc.
Northridge, CA