Shortning risers
#1
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Location: St Louis MO.
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Shortning risers
Does anyone know if jacketed Gil risers can be cut and shortened for my silent choice, they have 3 holes and the factory end I am assuming to let the water out, thanks
#2
Lakeside Restorations.com
Commercial Member
You probably could, but ya better do it right.. You would be safer to either buy new ones, or call & send them back to Gil/Corsa to be modified.. That is the safe way to do it if you are not sure how to do the mod.. Jamie / Lakeside
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www.LakesideRestorations.com 570-639-2628
We Make Fast Toys Faster, Cool Toys Cooler and Old Toys New!.. Performance, Custom & OEM Parts & much MORE![/CENTER]
#3
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Just cut them to lenght with a cut off saw, then tack weld a SS rod in a couple spots to the tubes to create a damn. Do not weld solid. Sent a set of mine off to Corsa several yrs ago for this modification. $100 for both. After seeing all that they did, I could have done it myself in a few mintutes.
End ans side view of my Gils, shortened for silent choice use
End ans side view of my Gils, shortened for silent choice use
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 12-02-2011 at 11:13 AM.
#4
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What does the welded rod do just locate the inner and outer tube, or do you fill up the bottom part to damn the water up up a certain level, thanks for your help, I thought I was going to have to spend a fortune on the magnum choice risers
#5
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
The SS rod acts as a dam to hold some water in the risors to keep the outer tubes from getting too hot. Also ties the two tubes together. You can't weld the rod solid at the same point to both inner and outer tubes. The tubes have to be able to 'slide' a bit do to different temps /expansion rates. You can see mine were welded on the rod ends to the inner tube, and welded to the outer tube towards the center.
Your tubes have the inner pipe ends expanded to fit snug inside the outer tube, but it is not welded to make it a non moveable joint.
I also modified my divertor valves to allow the risors to be as long as possible by putting a double angle on the lower leg that allowed the valve to be moved backwards several inches over stock setups. Also both ends of the straight were shortened just enough I could still double hose clamp the exhaust tubes. This allowed for even more setback. All done to prevent any chance of reversion.
Your tubes have the inner pipe ends expanded to fit snug inside the outer tube, but it is not welded to make it a non moveable joint.
I also modified my divertor valves to allow the risors to be as long as possible by putting a double angle on the lower leg that allowed the valve to be moved backwards several inches over stock setups. Also both ends of the straight were shortened just enough I could still double hose clamp the exhaust tubes. This allowed for even more setback. All done to prevent any chance of reversion.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 12-02-2011 at 11:13 AM.
#7
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
I did it as an extra saftey precaution. I added the silent choice and did the mods at the same time, so never ran it w/o the modified valves. Fountain did the same thing from the factory. That's where I got the idea.