47 Lightning Heads To Rf Powerboats
10-11-2011, 03:19 PM
#33
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47, your boat has the same problems mine did. I just had the transom and stringers replaced too.
I think there were two reasons for water getting to all the wood in the engine compartment, and neither has to do with the wood: if its done the same way with synthetic core, you'll get the same effect of water busting the structure from inside out. There are legions of foam core boats with soggy core and delamination too.
1) The limber holes were a joke, and they look the same OR WORSE in the work you just had done. When water does not drain, it sits on the outside of the stringers. Water molecules slowly migrate through plastics. Water is incompressible, plastic, wood or foam does compress. So the water starts breaking the bonds between the plastic and core, and worse, between the laminations of glass itself.
Therefore, make RF enlarge the limber holes far, far beyond their normal practice. Remember that stuff can get in there, like leaves, so little tiny holes get clogged very easily. Mine are now big enough I can put my hand through them.
2) All holes cut or drilled into cored fiberglass must be sealed. Holes that mount stuff should look like this in cross section:
1) Drill the hole for the hardware.
2) Put a bent piece of metal (lots of people use allen keys or bent nails) in the drill chuck, and grind out the core a bit more, so there is a void between the fiberglass skins.
3) Vacuum the junk out of the hole, dont worry if a little bit remains (will act as filler)
4) Put tape on one side
5) Fill the hole with West System (thin) epoxy, or mayonaise consistency epoxy for holes through vertical surfaces (stringers and transom), using silica agents to get the right consistency (again, WEST provides good stuff). NOTE: DO NOT USE RESIN! Resin is no where near as waterproof as epoxy.
6) Re-drill the hole through the epoxy plug.
7) Mount the hardware.
This is boat building 101. If BOTH of these are not done pervasively, don't pay. NEITHER of these were done on my boat which is 3 years newer than yours.
I think there were two reasons for water getting to all the wood in the engine compartment, and neither has to do with the wood: if its done the same way with synthetic core, you'll get the same effect of water busting the structure from inside out. There are legions of foam core boats with soggy core and delamination too.
1) The limber holes were a joke, and they look the same OR WORSE in the work you just had done. When water does not drain, it sits on the outside of the stringers. Water molecules slowly migrate through plastics. Water is incompressible, plastic, wood or foam does compress. So the water starts breaking the bonds between the plastic and core, and worse, between the laminations of glass itself.
Therefore, make RF enlarge the limber holes far, far beyond their normal practice. Remember that stuff can get in there, like leaves, so little tiny holes get clogged very easily. Mine are now big enough I can put my hand through them.
2) All holes cut or drilled into cored fiberglass must be sealed. Holes that mount stuff should look like this in cross section:
1) Drill the hole for the hardware.
2) Put a bent piece of metal (lots of people use allen keys or bent nails) in the drill chuck, and grind out the core a bit more, so there is a void between the fiberglass skins.
3) Vacuum the junk out of the hole, dont worry if a little bit remains (will act as filler)
4) Put tape on one side
5) Fill the hole with West System (thin) epoxy, or mayonaise consistency epoxy for holes through vertical surfaces (stringers and transom), using silica agents to get the right consistency (again, WEST provides good stuff). NOTE: DO NOT USE RESIN! Resin is no where near as waterproof as epoxy.
6) Re-drill the hole through the epoxy plug.
7) Mount the hardware.
This is boat building 101. If BOTH of these are not done pervasively, don't pay. NEITHER of these were done on my boat which is 3 years newer than yours.
10-12-2011, 01:18 PM
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I wonder what is not quite right with your particular setup since my 47 with stock 575sci , xr drives , and hering 5 blades would run 93 at 5350 rpm.
I would thing your setup would run more like 115.
my 2 cents
I would thing your setup would run more like 115.
my 2 cents
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10-12-2011, 02:25 PM
#38
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how are you checking your speed gps or speedo ? plus my hull is older different steps but the say it handles better than the new ones .but 3-5 mph slower on top with same power .
10-13-2011, 09:57 AM
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I looked at the steps on yours and they are quite smaller than my '02.
I have just upgraded my motors to 650hp by Gellner Eng. so I will be tryin to get some time on it this weekend and see how it does before my props go to hering (b4 Key West).
I have just upgraded my motors to 650hp by Gellner Eng. so I will be tryin to get some time on it this weekend and see how it does before my props go to hering (b4 Key West).
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