Fresh water flush on Fountain
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My technician suggested using a "muff" and taping over the low water pick-up on the front of the drive when flushing. The thinking was that this would better flush the passageways that the water would take under regular operation. I plan to use Salt-Away after running in salt water. I read where someone said they had a partially block plastic tube (of some sort) blocked with salt and sand buildup? This was part of the water delivery system? 160º is the proper temp for raw water cooling, correct? Will a partially stuck thermostat allow an engine to run a bit over the thermostat rating?
I like the built-in system on the Fountain which saves you a lot of climbing in and out of the boat but want to do what's best for my investment. I would appreciate your thoughts especially from folks who work on these for a living.
I like the built-in system on the Fountain which saves you a lot of climbing in and out of the boat but want to do what's best for my investment. I would appreciate your thoughts especially from folks who work on these for a living.
#2
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Port Deposit Md
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was always told muffs on large engines was not a good idea because it could not supply the water flow needed to keep up with the engine because of all the leaking around the muffs. How about a drum full of water and lower the outdrives down into the drum.
#3
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wes,
I use the low tack blue painters tape and put a few strips on the front of the drive pickup holes like you stated.
Use the HD earmuffs that flow water from both sides and as long as you have good water pressure I would think you are good with the 6.2's flushing on the hose.
With my HP525 I can read water pressure on the gauge using the earmuffs and the CMI's are warm to the touch but not hot, plenty of fresh water coming from both the dumps and the prop.
My tech runs the motor the same way in the shop when servicing.
Have fun - Mark D
I use the low tack blue painters tape and put a few strips on the front of the drive pickup holes like you stated.
Use the HD earmuffs that flow water from both sides and as long as you have good water pressure I would think you are good with the 6.2's flushing on the hose.
With my HP525 I can read water pressure on the gauge using the earmuffs and the CMI's are warm to the touch but not hot, plenty of fresh water coming from both the dumps and the prop.
My tech runs the motor the same way in the shop when servicing.
Have fun - Mark D
#5
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ontario canada
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i have always bought the good ones with the really soft rubber and the rod that goes thru the lower end or plum in some valves and put a garden hose fitting on it and away u go just don't go over 1200 rpm very long and your sea pump will last i run mine like that with garden hose and cmi are cold to touch but have good water pressure from the garden hose
#8
Registered
Thread Starter
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Does anyone know of a schematic of the water flow from the intake on the Bravo 1 through the 6.2MPI with raw water cooling and oil/power steering cooler? I had both water pumps rebuilt and am hearing from others that water pump impeller pieces might need to be flushed/removed from the system. I'll be taking a long trip this summer and am "trying" to avoid any surprises. Thanks in advance.