Shorter lower drive units
#1
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Does anyone have any experience with adding shorter Bravo lower units to a 32 in order to raise the X dimension? I have been advised not to add any more power to my engines (600) while retaining Bravo One drives. I really don't want the additional expense of moving to heavier duty equipment (speedmasters etc.) in order to add more HP, but wouldn't mind a few additional mph's if simply installing shorter outdrives will accomplish it. How will this effect planing? I know it will be worse but I wonder how much worse. How much more top end?
#3
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Originally posted by DIAMONDPERFORMA
Curt, I have the same boat and was wondering the same thing, also how would boxes work on a 32
Curt, I have the same boat and was wondering the same thing, also how would boxes work on a 32
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#4
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Curt
. Take a close look at your transom beneath the swim platform. You will notice that the drive housing sits about a foot behind the bottom of the "runing surface" or pad. I had never thought of it that way but that is exactly what the extention boxes are designed to do...move the drives away from the back of the running surface.
The technical term for this trick is known as a "notched transom"
. Take a close look at your transom beneath the swim platform. You will notice that the drive housing sits about a foot behind the bottom of the "runing surface" or pad. I had never thought of it that way but that is exactly what the extention boxes are designed to do...move the drives away from the back of the running surface.
The technical term for this trick is known as a "notched transom"
#5
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Their is MPH to be had their. It is just what you are willing to trade for it. Dustin Whipple gave me the name of a dealer that put 1 in shorter lowers on his 35. Boat ran 3-4 mph faster, but was harder to get on plane, especially with a load, fuel, people, ect. Benny Robertson, when he was still with Fountain, said 2 in shorter lowers and 5 blade Hydromotives was worth 4-6 MPH on my 35 twin step. Never tried out his advise, and he isn't with Fountain anymore. The less drag the faster speed, but it can really be expensive and time consuming testing props. If their was someone with a proven combination it would sure make things easier.
#6
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Originally posted by Beak Boater
If their was someone with a proven combination it would sure make things easier. [/B]
If their was someone with a proven combination it would sure make things easier. [/B]
Hey twinn29, I knew there was a term for that "trick" but I could not remember it for the life of me when I was posting. Thanks for the refresher.
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Gatorone,
Haven't put sportmasters on the boat yet. Bought new XR uppers to mate them to, so I'll be swapping out whole drives. I have to change the gimbal bearings, boot sleeves, and insert trim limiters in the trim cylinders. (converting from upgraded Bravos to XRs).
What props did you end up running? I've had a couple people tell me to try Herrings; good out-of-hole, good cruise, and minimal top end loss. Did you try these?
Step
Haven't put sportmasters on the boat yet. Bought new XR uppers to mate them to, so I'll be swapping out whole drives. I have to change the gimbal bearings, boot sleeves, and insert trim limiters in the trim cylinders. (converting from upgraded Bravos to XRs).
What props did you end up running? I've had a couple people tell me to try Herrings; good out-of-hole, good cruise, and minimal top end loss. Did you try these?
Step