Stellings Boxes
#11
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What year scarab? The 80s thru mid 90s scarabs seemed to run VERY low X dimensions. Raising the drives should be worth 3-4mph easy.
BTW, dont forget to add full external hydraulic steering to your budget.
BTW, dont forget to add full external hydraulic steering to your budget.
#12
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a flat transom boat pick's up more than a notched transom boat, my 35 lightning[notched transom] on picked up 2.5 mph when the boxes were added, a friends 32 active thunder [flat transom] picked up almost 4 mph, with the stelling's they have 1" raise built in, or you can raise the drives even higher on them to raise your X . your 38 should pick up 4 mph maybe 5 if you install the drives high on the boxes, and you are running some nice 4 blade props[or 5 blade]
Mark
Mark
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93 Kevlar 1.35 bravo's highest setting on the box turnin 3 blade 23 Mirage at 4900 no gain in speed, sea tested on a pancake, again not sure if these boxes come to life in flat water or not
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Originally Posted by SHAGNASTY
I would like to thank all the locals wise azzzes for there responses. I was actually hoping to get input from guys who have experience with boxes?
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#17
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SHAG,
I'm not sure this will help you much or not, but when I bought my boat it originally came with TRS drives, but I had them removed, and modified to a Bravo One 1.5 gear set-up. When I made the switch I thought it would be a perfect time to add the Stellings extension boxes. I mounted the Stellings extension boxes as high as they could be mounted (just under the rub rail on my boat---32' Active Thunder), but because I made so many changes I cannot tell you if my hull actually benefited from the extension boxes or not truthfully. It would seem that because my hull does NOT have a notched transom that my hull WOULD bennifit from the boxes---at least I am hoping so. At this time with no nose cones the stock length drives, the propshaft center line sits about 3.5" to 4.0" below the hull. Just before I took the boat out of the water for the season about two years ago, I also had a serious hook taken out of the bottom of my hull which I picked up about 4-5mph at 4000rpm and I obviously thought that was a pretty good gain. I couldn't get a good top end reading with the hook taken out at the time because my engines weren't operating up to RPM the last time I had my boat in the water---however, they are newly/freshly rebuilt now. I have purchased some -2" IMCO shortened lowers, and will be trying them soon to see if there would be any gains or losses, etc. I am thinking that the -2" IMCO shorties with the nose cones already molded into the casting design will work with the extension boxes, and my hull not having a notched transom---but we will soon see for sure. By the way, I've been running a labbed 32" Bravo One 4-bladed prop.
Every hull is different and I obviously have a lot of mods going on with my set-up---perhaps too much info for what you need, but perhaps it will help you out a bit or give you something to think about.
I'm not sure this will help you much or not, but when I bought my boat it originally came with TRS drives, but I had them removed, and modified to a Bravo One 1.5 gear set-up. When I made the switch I thought it would be a perfect time to add the Stellings extension boxes. I mounted the Stellings extension boxes as high as they could be mounted (just under the rub rail on my boat---32' Active Thunder), but because I made so many changes I cannot tell you if my hull actually benefited from the extension boxes or not truthfully. It would seem that because my hull does NOT have a notched transom that my hull WOULD bennifit from the boxes---at least I am hoping so. At this time with no nose cones the stock length drives, the propshaft center line sits about 3.5" to 4.0" below the hull. Just before I took the boat out of the water for the season about two years ago, I also had a serious hook taken out of the bottom of my hull which I picked up about 4-5mph at 4000rpm and I obviously thought that was a pretty good gain. I couldn't get a good top end reading with the hook taken out at the time because my engines weren't operating up to RPM the last time I had my boat in the water---however, they are newly/freshly rebuilt now. I have purchased some -2" IMCO shortened lowers, and will be trying them soon to see if there would be any gains or losses, etc. I am thinking that the -2" IMCO shorties with the nose cones already molded into the casting design will work with the extension boxes, and my hull not having a notched transom---but we will soon see for sure. By the way, I've been running a labbed 32" Bravo One 4-bladed prop.
Every hull is different and I obviously have a lot of mods going on with my set-up---perhaps too much info for what you need, but perhaps it will help you out a bit or give you something to think about.
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Probably not high enough. I know a couple older flat deck boats that raised their drives 1 1/2" - 2" without boxes and gained a few mph.
Are you having any ventilation or blowout problems with the current drive height? Do you have good trim control? Does the hull porpoise w/o the use of tabs?
Gary
Are you having any ventilation or blowout problems with the current drive height? Do you have good trim control? Does the hull porpoise w/o the use of tabs?
Gary
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Originally Posted by SHAGNASTY
I would like to thank all the locals wise azzzes for there responses. I was actually hoping to get input from guys who have experience with boxes?
I have experience with "boxes"
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so exactly what is it you want to know??
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