PVC valve flush
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: houston
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PVC valve flush
My dad just purchased a 2001 Commander Signature 26ft. Beautiful boat. I haven't seen a lot of talk about commander boats on this forum. It has a volvo penta 420 dpx motor with the dpx outdrive.
I am looking into setting it up with a very easy to access flush bypass valve. I have looked at many vendors but just wanted to know how come no one seems to be using PVC ball valves. They are rated for alot of pressure more than what this boat would put out at WOT on the intake of the raw water. So is there something I am missing??? Will these PVC valves not last or something. Some one has to of had some kind on experience with them.
Thanks guys
I am looking into setting it up with a very easy to access flush bypass valve. I have looked at many vendors but just wanted to know how come no one seems to be using PVC ball valves. They are rated for alot of pressure more than what this boat would put out at WOT on the intake of the raw water. So is there something I am missing??? Will these PVC valves not last or something. Some one has to of had some kind on experience with them.
Thanks guys
#3
Registered
Re: PVC valve flush
I had to modify the set that came from the factory on my Donzi. I think it was Perko style. The Spring valve was stuck closed so I removed the guts of the tee and re used the tee and added a plastic ball valve up where the fitting came inside the engine compartment. It never leaked from pressure.
#4
CBPBA's Walmart Greeter
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Re: PVC valve flush
Over the last several years I used the Perko's and another brand (don't remember name). Like clockwork, each one eventually failed after 2 seasons, causing my engine temps to swing wildly. I boat in brackish water, leaning more towards fresh than salt. Corrosion wasn't the problem, it was fatigue in the spring.
With the cost of the Perko and other brands, it becomes too costly to replace them every 2 years.
There's only 1 reliable and long term solution. Go with a manual setup to include a brass Y valve and stainless ball, and ensure the hose cap is metal, not plastic. The plastic hose cap will eventually fail as well, allowing air into the system.
With the cost of the Perko and other brands, it becomes too costly to replace them every 2 years.
There's only 1 reliable and long term solution. Go with a manual setup to include a brass Y valve and stainless ball, and ensure the hose cap is metal, not plastic. The plastic hose cap will eventually fail as well, allowing air into the system.
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CHESAPEAKE BAY POWER BOAT ASSOCIATION
'http://www.cbpba.com'
"Experience is something you don't have until just after you need it."
#5
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Re: PVC valve flush
I have read about people having the plastics ones and they would develop a crack and start leaking.
I spent days going to hardware stores to make my own steel one out of a plumbing tee and barbed ends that would screw into the tee(waste of time).
I ended up buying one of the stainless steel t"s ,i think it was from Cp performance,It was like $30. .Then i screwed in a shut off valve from home depot right into the 1/2" tee side. I then ran a heater hose(make sure its a reinforced hose or it will collapse) with a quick connect garden hose fitting at the other end. Works great ,wish i would have put it in a long time ago.
I spent days going to hardware stores to make my own steel one out of a plumbing tee and barbed ends that would screw into the tee(waste of time).
I ended up buying one of the stainless steel t"s ,i think it was from Cp performance,It was like $30. .Then i screwed in a shut off valve from home depot right into the 1/2" tee side. I then ran a heater hose(make sure its a reinforced hose or it will collapse) with a quick connect garden hose fitting at the other end. Works great ,wish i would have put it in a long time ago.