cougarman

Just going off memory here, so my comments may differ some.

I'm wondering if that's an older Wiesmann conversion, cause I thought Wiesmann liked to weld the back if the skeg to carry to the prop. And I see those are not carried back. Other than that I feel Wiesmann has the best conversion out there.

Pat Wiesmann is the originator of the drysump, it worked so well he was banned after that. So He sold the plans to Mercury and now its there for every one to use.

Mercury didn't use all of Pat's design for some reason though.
Seems like Mercury uses 1 or 2 less nozzles for spraying the gears. And also Mercury doesn't use the scavenger tube in the lower case. So Mercury still has 2 gallons of oil in there, so it's not a total drysump like Pat designed. But still works well.

Only other thing I was aware of was, Pat's pump worked forward and reverse. Mercury's only worked in forward, not sure if that has changed since then.

Sadly Pat is not doing conversions anymore, so he can focus on his own work. He sold his tools to Vern Gilbert, which also took over Gentry Turbo's after Tom Gentry passed on.

Vern also does great work and he and Pat are business neighbors per say. They have worked on various projects together.

Other thing I don't remember Pat or Vern ever talking about is cutting off that rear Cavitation plate. So that has my curisity on the effects it has.

And I'm not totally positive, but I thought Vern doesn't like to weld the skeg as the picture show's. But like anybody I know they have improved there product over time too.

Hope this helps
Cougarman

racesdad

welding weekens the skeg area. ask motley crew what happens

Ryan Beckley

Colabella Performance 407-498-0094 can do the conversion for you and can also handle any type of drive work you need.

yahoo

X lake is a great idea, that way you can try lots of props before you buy. Keeps you from having to buy alot of props.

Not sure if I had that much power and not racing that I would really worry about the mph, just the handling. Picking a good all around prop will be hard. Some will be good for rough water and some for smooth. Some will lift the bow some will not. Its not that important if your not racing, cause if its rough you dont have to go "play". But when your racing your going doesnt matter how rough it is.

The herring props are tons better than mercs. With the herrings all the weird vibrations you fell will go away. But they cost alot of $$ and are hard to get.

Are you taking the boat to key west ?

Curtis

Byrdman

Nah...not here....seriously though....you need to collect props...then resell them....or if you can get her down there to lake x...use all theirs then buy the ones that work....but the ocean is way different..I have not got to the dial part yet..everything is tuned to the max.....tuned I said

KNOT-RIGHT

The old style skegs measure 12 inches from prop
centerline to bottom of skeg.



Anyone got a swept back they can measure?

shifter

The skeg length is the same.

When you weld the housing it changes shape of the housing dramatically. It also de-heatreats the housing. The housing deforms out of round up to .06 of an inch and more. We went through a lot of work to make the drives run right after they were welded.

The instability comes from the diamond shape. The drives pictured on the vee were race drives. We clipped the cav plates to save the 15 lbs each. The skegs were cut on the thickest part to make it a full wedge design without welding. The leading edge was also changed. More like the #4 and 5 drive.

Try different wheels.

pat W