What is the best kind of flushing system for stern drive performance boats
#11
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is there a way of flushing a marine motor without starting the motor? Sometimes when we get back from a run its later in the eve and we dont want to disturb the folks around us. my only guess is to tap into the oil cooler but that only will push water to the back end of the water pump and not strainers. have any suggestions??
Christian
Christian
#12
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If you feed water directly to your thermostat housing, your SWP is going to run dry and destroy the impeller in seconds
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Phazar, that setup is nice!
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US1 & Sydwayz, when you hook up your setup, doesn't the water run out of the drive until you start it, then the water pump picks up the flow? But you have to run it, right?
#13
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I would buy Perko Inlut, mount it, buy the hoses and fittings from hardware shop (lowes or home depot)
having Doller offshore install this one for me plus doing the rigging.
having Doller offshore install this one for me plus doing the rigging.
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#14
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Thanks,
Michael
#15
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Brian did you take the water inlet hose all theoff then splice the t-fitting into it, or did you just cut the hose while attached in fit in the t-fitting? Starboard looks easy enought to get to, but the port motor looks to be a bear.
I too want to do the simple approach by using hardware store parts.
I too want to do the simple approach by using hardware store parts.
#16
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Rosebud,
The setup that Phazer posted above does NOT require starting the motor.
F1,
The setup that I installed with a T-fitting into the raw water inlet to the SWP DOES require starting the engine. I make sure that the exhaust is salt free before shutting down. With a thermostat installed, you will have to run the boat long enough to open the thermostat to flush the entire system.
The water runs out the drive when you turn on the hose, and flushes that direction.
When you start the motor, all of the water is sucked by the SWP though the motor.
Rick,
I removed both of those raw water hoses that go into the SWP to make sure I cut the correct amount out of them for the T-fitting.
My SB motor's hose was MUCH easier to remove than my Port motor's hose, but I think that's because I think the 'barb' holding the hose on was a little larger on that motor's setup, just by variance. It was REALLY tough to remove from the back side, but I would not do it any other way.
Good luck guys.
The setup that Phazer posted above does NOT require starting the motor.
F1,
The setup that I installed with a T-fitting into the raw water inlet to the SWP DOES require starting the engine. I make sure that the exhaust is salt free before shutting down. With a thermostat installed, you will have to run the boat long enough to open the thermostat to flush the entire system.
The water runs out the drive when you turn on the hose, and flushes that direction.
When you start the motor, all of the water is sucked by the SWP though the motor.
Rick,
I removed both of those raw water hoses that go into the SWP to make sure I cut the correct amount out of them for the T-fitting.
My SB motor's hose was MUCH easier to remove than my Port motor's hose, but I think that's because I think the 'barb' holding the hose on was a little larger on that motor's setup, just by variance. It was REALLY tough to remove from the back side, but I would not do it any other way.
Good luck guys.
#17
Ginger or Mary Ann?
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Yep, that's the sweet thing about this simple design. Flushes the drive completely, then everything else as soon as the motor is started and up to temp. The SW pump will just suck the water right in to it, no valving needed. You just have to make sure you close off the flushing route either by a valve or in my case, the screw on cap, when you are done so that you don't suck air when running on the lake.
Not sure I agree/follow the flushing w/o running method. seems no matter how you plumb it, the cold closed t-stat will cause problems.
#18
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Are you referring to the Superflush setup or to handfulz28 suggestion ?
Last edited by Phazar454Mag; 01-06-2007 at 07:14 AM.
#19
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Not sure I agree/follow the flushing w/o running method. seems no matter how you plumb it, the cold closed t-stat will cause problems
Will the water flow down past the sea water pump or is it a pretty tight seal that would hold most or all of the water in front of it?
#20
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F1,
May work, but not the best method. Basically you are trying to back flow thru the housing that way.
Really can't say. You are changing the flow path resistance thing. I see the housing being flushed real good though.
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The SW pump is a pretty good seal, so you won't be getting a flush through the coolers and drive, if any.
1 point to make, you will not be able to run your motor on the trailer using the housing as your supply point. Impellor will see no water.