Freeing up a corroded stainless/aluminum joint
#11
Geronimo36
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If you find the cure...let me know !!! Alum and Stainless "seize" together when they are tightened. I have not found ANYTHING to break them lose once they are seized. Dave
#13
Semper Fi
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Chuck I use PB blast a lot as well as Kroil Also I will use "Rust Buster
http://markal.com/ProductDetails49.aspx
Some times it takes all three but usually after soaking with each and some time usually I get things free.
If you would like I can get all three to you.
Good luck.
Take care,
Rob
http://markal.com/ProductDetails49.aspx
Some times it takes all three but usually after soaking with each and some time usually I get things free.
If you would like I can get all three to you.
Good luck.
Take care,
Rob
#14
Charter Member #232
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You may get them to unfreeze but the threads will probably gaul up with you break them free. LOTS of heat on the alluminum is your best bet.
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#15
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PB blast it for a day or two. Heat the screw liberally with a torch, then put it in the freezer or put it in a bunch of crushed ice. Should do the job, might have to do it twice. Save some ice for margaritas when you're done
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I found some PB blaster at work and soaked the parts down pretty good tonight. I have already bought the replacement aluminum parts, so I'm not worried about scrapping them. We'll see what some elbow grease and heat does on Saturday when I get back over to the shop.
Thanks for the help, guys!
Thanks for the help, guys!
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#18
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I found some PB blaster at work and soaked the parts down pretty good tonight. I have already bought the replacement aluminum parts, so I'm not worried about scrapping them. We'll see what some elbow grease and heat does on Saturday when I get back over to the shop.
Thanks for the help, guys!
Thanks for the help, guys!
LOL, I guess they don't find many corroded parts where you work, huh Chuck, bet the can was full when you found it
#19
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Sux - lucky you don't need the aluminum piece.
The key to the heat & cold is to heat the aluminum without heating the bolt, then chill the bolt. The bigger the temperature spread between the two the more chance of sucess. Giant tip on oxy-acetylene torch - heat the aluminum fast - then there is just a few seconds before the bolt starts to heat.
In the day we would hit the bolt with liquid freon to chill it selectively (wear safety goggles, I'm sure we contributed to global warming/lost ozone layer , but heck - who knew ?) Today we use a big bottle of CO2 (still global warming, but at least you don't wind up in jail)
If not successful, let it sit for a few hours, spray with PB or Kroll, then do it again.
Takes a little feel to not melt the aluminum. A propane torch just isn't hot enough for the fast heating you need in extreme cases.
Good luck - and do not forget the margaritas when finished.
The key to the heat & cold is to heat the aluminum without heating the bolt, then chill the bolt. The bigger the temperature spread between the two the more chance of sucess. Giant tip on oxy-acetylene torch - heat the aluminum fast - then there is just a few seconds before the bolt starts to heat.
In the day we would hit the bolt with liquid freon to chill it selectively (wear safety goggles, I'm sure we contributed to global warming/lost ozone layer , but heck - who knew ?) Today we use a big bottle of CO2 (still global warming, but at least you don't wind up in jail)
If not successful, let it sit for a few hours, spray with PB or Kroll, then do it again.
Takes a little feel to not melt the aluminum. A propane torch just isn't hot enough for the fast heating you need in extreme cases.
Good luck - and do not forget the margaritas when finished.
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#20
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ps - Freon around an open flame or red hot metal turns into all kinds of nasty acids & poison gas
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www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired