Need some serious help - Luke Chinewalker has boarded my Sunsation
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by audacity
yes cg is something to look at....BUT look also at the cf in which the delta pad and drive have everything to do with....cg can be a bandaid for a incorrect or less than ideal cf....
joey
f2-80
yes cg is something to look at....BUT look also at the cf in which the delta pad and drive have everything to do with....cg can be a bandaid for a incorrect or less than ideal cf....
joey
f2-80
We are entertaining the idea of taking the hook out of the boat, but this is a lot more expensive (for me) than playing around with drive height and props.
#24
Registered
kook,
after looking at your post this is what i think you should do. you can have your propellor sent out and labed so it will reduce the transom lift. that should cure most of your problem. you also might want to try another propellar counter rotating.
also it's great that you want to do worst case cenario but trim were put on the boat for use. you need them to level out the boat. if you learn how to use them properley you can even increase your speed with them. thats about it.
Treadwell
after looking at your post this is what i think you should do. you can have your propellor sent out and labed so it will reduce the transom lift. that should cure most of your problem. you also might want to try another propellar counter rotating.
also it's great that you want to do worst case cenario but trim were put on the boat for use. you need them to level out the boat. if you learn how to use them properley you can even increase your speed with them. thats about it.
Treadwell
#25
Go back to last year and do one change at a time.
Go back to the drive height and prop you used last year and with the new engine see where you're at. Then make a change one step at a time. You changed the drive and motor and now you're lost. With your old setup I would go up 4" on the prop.
Go back to the drive height and prop you used last year and with the new engine see where you're at. Then make a change one step at a time. You changed the drive and motor and now you're lost. With your old setup I would go up 4" on the prop.
#27
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Harrison Township, MI
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My exprience with boats is that you remove the hook in the bottom for more speed, doesn't mean that you will more stability. Can't understand what you are trying to accomplish with this boat. They are made to play in rough water, if you wanted a lake rocket, shouldn't a cat be the way to go?
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by tmager
My exprience with boats is that you remove the hook in the bottom for more speed, doesn't mean that you will more stability. Can't understand what you are trying to accomplish with this boat. They are made to play in rough water, if you wanted a lake rocket, shouldn't a cat be the way to go?
My exprience with boats is that you remove the hook in the bottom for more speed, doesn't mean that you will more stability. Can't understand what you are trying to accomplish with this boat. They are made to play in rough water, if you wanted a lake rocket, shouldn't a cat be the way to go?
The notion about removing the hook comes from the following thought process (please feel free to comment on): While the hook help to get the boat out of the water at typical design speeds (up to 45-78 mph), when you start chine walking, the hook "hooks" back at the transom enough to rotate the direction of the bow a slight amount - so now, the bow is not pointed exactly in direction in the path of travel. The hook would also exacerbate (sp?) the reactive force on the hull when the chine hits the water. Other than the associated cost of removing the hook (approx $1200), what harm can it do? Porpoising? If so, can't this be cured with a bit of tab down? The boat's got some good sized tabs (280S) for it's size.
Feedback/comments welcome.