Super Hawaii
02-14-2011, 05:54 AM
#71
Registered
Steve, yea the Seatek were very bad we had to call the Fire Dept before we ran them at the shop as people would see the black smoke and the Fire Dept would get over run with calls - Fire, Fire, Fire !!!!
02-15-2011, 06:08 AM
#74
OSO Moderator
Charter Member
I believe this is the boat, it used to have some really old pink / teal graphics which were peeled off. One of the pics still has some of the original graphics left on the deck.
I am reasonably sure this boat is for sale. Last time I saw it - it was in really nice shape!
I am reasonably sure this boat is for sale. Last time I saw it - it was in really nice shape!
__________________
BillR
'00 Scarab Sport 302 CC
'02 Cigarette Top Gun TS
'02 PQ 340
'00 PQ 280
'98 Scarab 22
'97 Baja Outlaw 20
'72 Checkmate
'65 Glastron
BillR
'00 Scarab Sport 302 CC
'02 Cigarette Top Gun TS
'02 PQ 340
'00 PQ 280
'98 Scarab 22
'97 Baja Outlaw 20
'72 Checkmate
'65 Glastron
Last edited by BillR; 02-15-2011 at 06:11 AM.
02-15-2011, 07:14 AM
#75
Charter Member #927
Charter Member
The lines of the 40 are all very close to the 34.
1st pic is just a cool shot by an airplane of a chopper videoing me.
2nd are the staggered engines in my 34, although a little dirty at the time.
3rd is on Lake Michigan.
1st pic is just a cool shot by an airplane of a chopper videoing me.
2nd are the staggered engines in my 34, although a little dirty at the time.
3rd is on Lake Michigan.
Gold Member
02-16-2011, 12:01 PM
#78
Registered
How thick are those propshafts , on the pic it looks like 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch ?
Never broke any with these big diesels ? or has this to do with running the propshafts in overdrive with small diameter props so there is less torque on the shafts ?
Never broke any with these big diesels ? or has this to do with running the propshafts in overdrive with small diameter props so there is less torque on the shafts ?
02-16-2011, 01:36 PM
#79
Registered
OK, I want to talk about a couple things here but stirlings question first:
The shafts were the same as 3A's the tapered shoulder goes to a larger dia shaft maybe 3/8"-1/2" (don't know what that is off the top of my head) and that diameter is carried through the strut bearing, it's hard to see but the shaft is tapered down very slightly all the way to where is goes through the transom coupler. I would liken this to a baseball bat your hands are on the skinny end (transom coupling) and the fatter end where you hit the ball is the where the prop mounts.
As far as breaking - no. Yes, is everything I preach about which is BIG OD gears, high prop speeds mean little drive line torque, the smaller props when re-entering the water have less bite, thus less strain. Any fast boat, the Geico any of the others on here don't go faster by turning a bigger prop slower, they turn the big prop faster!
------------------------------------------------------
About the pictures themself and my point - it was said the 34' had extreme rocker and by straighting the bottom made the boat better. I don't know if better meant faster or less porpoise?
I wanted to show what I talk about in practice, the steps make for adding rocker by raising the bottom with each step, many small or few large the bottom is rasied and rocker added. To now counter the effect of rocker that makes the boat lay backwards you have to set the drives in positive trim which is up angle to drive the transom up and make the boat level.
Look at the Apache's with high X demension running in not flat water the drives are netural to positive to drive the boat through and faster, the cats same thing, drives slightly tucked under. I stand corrected about the 4 degrees on the black boat, I looked at old notes and they were 6 degrees which is even more extreme to the positive
The idea I want to explore on paper here is did the 34' bottom have to much rocker or could the drives have been too deep, maybe if the drives were higher so they had less leverage the boat would ride back on it's heels and you could have used less trim and went faster?
I swear the hull was the 32 ME and that boat worked well I believe with surface drives and the boat we made maybe wasn't a bad design or mold, just mis-applied?
I wish I had the time and money now to play again, so much smarter now and wiser now!
The shafts were the same as 3A's the tapered shoulder goes to a larger dia shaft maybe 3/8"-1/2" (don't know what that is off the top of my head) and that diameter is carried through the strut bearing, it's hard to see but the shaft is tapered down very slightly all the way to where is goes through the transom coupler. I would liken this to a baseball bat your hands are on the skinny end (transom coupling) and the fatter end where you hit the ball is the where the prop mounts.
As far as breaking - no. Yes, is everything I preach about which is BIG OD gears, high prop speeds mean little drive line torque, the smaller props when re-entering the water have less bite, thus less strain. Any fast boat, the Geico any of the others on here don't go faster by turning a bigger prop slower, they turn the big prop faster!
------------------------------------------------------
About the pictures themself and my point - it was said the 34' had extreme rocker and by straighting the bottom made the boat better. I don't know if better meant faster or less porpoise?
I wanted to show what I talk about in practice, the steps make for adding rocker by raising the bottom with each step, many small or few large the bottom is rasied and rocker added. To now counter the effect of rocker that makes the boat lay backwards you have to set the drives in positive trim which is up angle to drive the transom up and make the boat level.
Look at the Apache's with high X demension running in not flat water the drives are netural to positive to drive the boat through and faster, the cats same thing, drives slightly tucked under. I stand corrected about the 4 degrees on the black boat, I looked at old notes and they were 6 degrees which is even more extreme to the positive
The idea I want to explore on paper here is did the 34' bottom have to much rocker or could the drives have been too deep, maybe if the drives were higher so they had less leverage the boat would ride back on it's heels and you could have used less trim and went faster?
I swear the hull was the 32 ME and that boat worked well I believe with surface drives and the boat we made maybe wasn't a bad design or mold, just mis-applied?
I wish I had the time and money now to play again, so much smarter now and wiser now!
02-16-2011, 05:35 PM
#80
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Murrayville Georgia
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on my flatbottom v drive the prop is overdriven. it has 1.25 gears and runs an 11.5 x 16 propeller. 6000 rpm is over 90 mph. as for the bottom of the boats, the one that Bill and I worked on it had rocker, hook, and everything in between. we straightened that one and fixed the porpoise issue. I dont think the speed changed but you could actually run the boat for all the speed without having to work your butt off. one of my issues with people saying you need to do this or that to make your boat run is every boat is different. the drive type, the drive location, the weight of the boat and where it is all make big differences. in the race boats we would add or remove 10 or 20 pounds from the nose and it would change the characteristics of the boat in a major way. I prefer to start with a straight bottom and then work from there to find if it needs a little hook or rocker. too many people depend on advice from someone who has never even seen their boat. I dont think we got all we could from the 34 we worked on but we had race boats to work on so after getting to run good we sent it back to the plant to let them finish and ship it. as was said those propshafts never had issues. the FB race boats we had never failed one and those big SeaTec diesels made alot of grunt.
