CMI exhaust
#1
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CMI exhaust
Does anyone know what year they had problems with them leaking? Did they stop leaking in 06?
I'd hate to spend large dollars on a boat and find out exhaust needs to be replaced.
Thanks Joe
I'd hate to spend large dollars on a boat and find out exhaust needs to be replaced.
Thanks Joe
#2
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Short answer is that you want the headers that the outer tubes are not directly welded to the flanges. You should see a 1/4" gap.
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Had a nice and long discussion with Merc. Racing Friday PM. Had a great test run with the boat today and it's running great.
With all do respect Dave, but the earlier CMI headers were actually better made. (prior to CMI selling to the current parent co.) The 1/4" gap you referencing is actually one of the big problems. That "gap" is not cooled and it's the weak spot, many failures occur at the welds, but it's easier to manufacture. The the "old" style and the headers for the gov. have the outer tube welded directly to the flange. All areas have water cooling. Just an observation.
With all do respect Dave, but the earlier CMI headers were actually better made. (prior to CMI selling to the current parent co.) The 1/4" gap you referencing is actually one of the big problems. That "gap" is not cooled and it's the weak spot, many failures occur at the welds, but it's easier to manufacture. The the "old" style and the headers for the gov. have the outer tube welded directly to the flange. All areas have water cooling. Just an observation.
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can you tell us what year that changed? I can't get a definate answer?
I agree if it is welded past the inner tube welded to flange, that short peice has to get a little hotter than the water cooled part, even if it is 1/4"
Thanks Joe
I agree if it is welded past the inner tube welded to flange, that short peice has to get a little hotter than the water cooled part, even if it is 1/4"
Thanks Joe
#9
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I'm working on a "No leak" header design. Getting close. If I have some time, I will find when CMI sold the Co. and some changes happened.
There is a way to "fix" (or at least help) that problem with the 1/4" gap.