Big Time

I've had the same problem. The normal oil filter wrench (with the tightening loop) didn't do the job for me...it just kept slipping. Eventually had to turn to an oil filter wrench, crushed the filter a little bit so that the pliers really locked in, climbed into the bilge all contorted so that I could get some leverage and crank on that SOB for about 1/2 hr until it moved. After that I didn't tighten it as far...hand tight after that, with just a little crank from the filter wrench for good measure.

bert4332

I finally got it resolved. I removed the adapter and unscrewed the two hoses. I placed the base plate of the filter in the vice, of course the nut on the threading was one size bigger than the largest socket I had in my tool box. So I took a 15" cresent wrench to the nut, had to bang away at it with a mallet, finally the base gave way. Once I made the first 1/2" turn, it was easy from there. I marked up the surface area of the adapter pretty good with the screw driver when I was in the bilge, but none of the marks went straight through from the inner lip to the outer, I figure if I crank down on the new filter real tight that will prevent it from leaking!!!

I oiled up my K&N real well, hand tightened to + 1/4", then waited 5 min, and turned back 1/8". In all seriousness, I would hate to have paid for 4-5 hrs worth of labor for such a simple task from a mechanic. Unreal, you get a $450 bill for $13 oil filter exchange.

tinman565

Glad you got it off sir. From now on...I'm only going 1/4 turn past gasket contact.

omerta one

I have used a hose clamp in the past; place it over the filter; tighten it up; put a screwdriver on the screw and hit the screwdriver with a hammer.

45Tripps

I usually end up unscrewing the lines, pulling the filter bases off, put he base in rag wrapped vise, then do the screw drive routine thru the filter. A real pain when you have to do this three times every time you change oil. I dont "crank" the new filters on either, but every time they just dont want to come back off.

Sydwayz

1) Are you guys cleaning and then lubing the housing/gasket surface before you install the new filters?
2) Are y'all warming the engine oil before you change it? The suspends any particles in the oil so it drains with the oil, and it also allows the filter and base to warm up providing an easier loosening of the filter.
3) For all yous with inverted filters, that is--with the opening of the filter facing DOWN, are you piercing the filter TDC all the way through, and letting the now pressure released oil to drain back into the pan?

The above tips make for extremely easy oil changes. I also only use Napa Wix Racing oil filters which I believe are made very stout in addition to their oil filtering capabilities. I put mine on with less than a 1/4 turn of tightness with an oil wrench, and have over 1000 combined engine hours with no issues with oil filters that were that tough to get off.

VetteLT193

I'm anal about oil changes and do all of my own in all my vehicles / toys and the only F-ing one that I ever have a problem with is the boat.

I tried that put a hole in the filter trick and that made it worse. all that does is ensure you'll make a bigger mess because oil comes out both ends.

Mine are always fused to the filter base. I always lube the filter rings well and still they are beyond hard to get off.

So, I feel for ya. good luck.

Thunderstruck

Now that you have the can ripped off of the base plate take a punch and tap/bend the plate back away from the seating surface and unscrew it. Ugly but works. Don't smack it just enough to bend the filter plate.

Sydwayz

You do have to let it drain for about 30 minutes or so; especially if you do it cold. My filters come off darn near bone dry. I make more of a mess when refilling the oil than I do draining it.

PARADISE ISLAND

I have 2 wrenches the one that slips over the filter and the one that grabs it!Glad he removed it before wigging out on it?