Repainting engines
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Repainting engines
OK --just received my 'new' motors---but think i'm going to change the color of them. Any good ideas on how to prep them so the new imron will stick and not flake off.. Iwas thinking just of hitting them with a scoth pad or steel wool, I don't want to get into chemical strippers as the motors are all together. Any thoughts???
#2
Charter Member #232
Charter Member
Solid colors go with 300 grit. if metalics go with 600 grit. If you can not get to areas then go with the scotchbright pad. Make sure you use the correct primer and you will be set.
Jon
Jon
__________________
Put your best foot forward!
Put your best foot forward!
#3
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lombard, Il
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If there isn't any paint on them, get em clean and use the Dupont self etching primer (vari-prime) and then top coat with Imron.
I did the big block in my 1956 Chevy that way (but with Centari) 10 years ago and it still shines. I did the 454s in my boat that way 4 years ago with Imron and they look great.
If I was to do the '56 again I'd use Imron for the gasoline resistance.
If they are already painted use the Reddish brown skotch brite pads and remove any shine from everywhere you want the paint to stick (every nook and crany). Use the 400 wet or dry on the valve covers, oil pan or any 'smooth' surface.
Good luck,
DS
I did the big block in my 1956 Chevy that way (but with Centari) 10 years ago and it still shines. I did the 454s in my boat that way 4 years ago with Imron and they look great.
If I was to do the '56 again I'd use Imron for the gasoline resistance.
If they are already painted use the Reddish brown skotch brite pads and remove any shine from everywhere you want the paint to stick (every nook and crany). Use the 400 wet or dry on the valve covers, oil pan or any 'smooth' surface.
Good luck,
DS
#4
Registered
Ive painted a couple of engines with Imron. The last one being a new 502 from GM. I deburred the block of casting flash with a die grinder. This is where most paint jobs fail. The paint will give up around sharp corners. Make sure you have the engine totally sealed first so no trash gets into the internals. Next I just scuffed up the factory paint with 400 paper. It takes a while by hand but its doable. Lastly before the spraying of the paint I washed the areas to be painted with laquer thinner to get rid of all grease and soften up the existing paint. Then I shot the Imron without any primer. I have painted several engines with Imron and no primer and never had any problems. One engine shot this way was pulled down and sent to the block shop for a rebuild several years later. The paint still looked good. The block shop couldnt get most of the paint off the block even in the hot tank! The machinist called and said he gave up.
Ron
Ron
#5
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Boynton Beach FLORIDA!!!!
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My engine builder said ANY paint will stick as long as you use a self etching (fancy words for sandable) primer on the blocks and stuff first
Im using a lacquer metal flake paint on mine
He told me no need for Imrons and engine enamels on the blocks and stuff
Also the boat engines dont get really that hot either so there should be a billion spray paints that you can choose from between the auto stores and home depot ect.
Im using a Plastikote paint (magenta metalflake) on mine and got all the chrome and polished aluminum dress up stuff for them too so they are going to hopefully look nice as all hell
Like Puder's engine but in magenta
going to be fun and definately my pride and joy
Jason
Im using a lacquer metal flake paint on mine
He told me no need for Imrons and engine enamels on the blocks and stuff
Also the boat engines dont get really that hot either so there should be a billion spray paints that you can choose from between the auto stores and home depot ect.
Im using a Plastikote paint (magenta metalflake) on mine and got all the chrome and polished aluminum dress up stuff for them too so they are going to hopefully look nice as all hell
Like Puder's engine but in magenta
going to be fun and definately my pride and joy
Jason
#6
Official OSO boat whore
Charter Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Mequon, WI
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd skip the sand paper and just use a green scotch bright to dull the existing finish. Wipe with wax & grease both before and after scuffing. An option is to shoot a guide coat of epoxy primer. I'd top coat with a enamel as the imron is overkill.
#7
speel chekk this fokker!
Charter Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Locust Valley, New York
Posts: 5,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmmmmm??? my enge9in is rusted and funky and on an engine stand in my garage. Unless perhaps you've been to bruce's shop and seen the new one ( i havn't) I was planning on painting it though. Metallic Silver and i was goign to use th PPG automotive paint and then clear coat it.
__________________
Pardon me, while I whip this out!
Pardon me, while I whip this out!
#9
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Boynton Beach FLORIDA!!!!
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cord said he used House of Kolor Polyurethane enamel
I hope the lacquer holds up on mine
Have to take some pics when it is all done
should be picking up engines in a week (june 14th) so we will see
Jason
I hope the lacquer holds up on mine
Have to take some pics when it is all done
should be picking up engines in a week (june 14th) so we will see
Jason
#10
Official OSO boat whore
Charter Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Mequon, WI
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Puder-actually I have seen your new one. In fact, I broke it!