2 New 500ci. motors underway
#11
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http://www.whiteperformance.com/
THIS IS FRED WHITE. WHO IS BUILDING MY ENGINE AND HOPEFULLY THIS GENTLEMAN'S AS WELL.
THIS IS FRED WHITE. WHO IS BUILDING MY ENGINE AND HOPEFULLY THIS GENTLEMAN'S AS WELL.
FWIW, the ad for the 525 CI marine engine says it has ProComp heads. Also has a 4.310 bore on a GM block. I assume it must be a bow-tie block, because I didn't know you could go that large on the bore for a production 454 block, especially a Gen V/VI.
#12
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i assume if i didnt pick my parts with Fred the build would of been cheaper as they would have used some of those china ****s.. like said i know 3 peole with good run time on his engines they to are built with the better parts. only time will tell
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http://www.whiteperformance.com/
THIS IS FRED WHITE. WHO IS BUILDING MY ENGINE AND HOPEFULLY THIS GENTLEMAN'S AS WELL.
THIS IS FRED WHITE. WHO IS BUILDING MY ENGINE AND HOPEFULLY THIS GENTLEMAN'S AS WELL.
#14
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Im not sure I get the whole small bore, 4.5'' stroke thing. If starting with a new dart block, why not go with the large bore, and a 4.25 stroke for a 540.
IMO, and take it for whats its worth, based on his spec sheet, its a get what you pay for type of thing. Theres a lot of budget parts there.
Some questions i'd have for him on those builds on his site
What block is he using? Tall Deck or short
What valves are going into these Chinese heads? (Inconel hopefully)
What valve springs is he using?
What lifters?
What rocker arms?
What oil pans?
What compression ratio?
Is the carb a new marine carb or rebuilt automotive carb?
Is there a way to get the engine without the optional cork valve gaskets hanging out of the valve cover?
No offense, but I wouldn't pay 10k dollars for a setup with Chinese heads, Chinese HEI ignition and plug wires, Chinese rods, budget pistons, probably Chinese lifters and rockers. And if its using a production core GM block, I'd really not do it. 4.310 bore is maxxed out on that block.
IMO, and take it for whats its worth, based on his spec sheet, its a get what you pay for type of thing. Theres a lot of budget parts there.
Some questions i'd have for him on those builds on his site
What block is he using? Tall Deck or short
What valves are going into these Chinese heads? (Inconel hopefully)
What valve springs is he using?
What lifters?
What rocker arms?
What oil pans?
What compression ratio?
Is the carb a new marine carb or rebuilt automotive carb?
Is there a way to get the engine without the optional cork valve gaskets hanging out of the valve cover?
No offense, but I wouldn't pay 10k dollars for a setup with Chinese heads, Chinese HEI ignition and plug wires, Chinese rods, budget pistons, probably Chinese lifters and rockers. And if its using a production core GM block, I'd really not do it. 4.310 bore is maxxed out on that block.
#15
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Im not sure I get the whole small bore, 4.5'' stroke thing. If starting with a new dart block, why not go with the large bore, and a 4.25 stroke for a 540.
IMO, and take it for whats its worth, based on his spec sheet, its a get what you pay for type of thing. Theres a lot of budget parts there.
Some questions i'd have for him on those builds on his site
What block is he using? Tall Deck or short
What valves are going into these Chinese heads? (Inconel hopefully)
What valve springs is he using?
What lifters?
What rocker arms?
What oil pans?
What compression ratio?
Is the carb a new marine carb or rebuilt automotive carb?
Is there a way to get the engine without the optional cork valve gaskets hanging out of the valve cover?
No offense, but I wouldn't pay 10k dollars for a setup with Chinese heads, Chinese HEI ignition and plug wires, Chinese rods, budget pistons, probably Chinese lifters and rockers. And if its using a production core GM block, I'd really not do it. 4.310 bore is maxxed out on that block.
IMO, and take it for whats its worth, based on his spec sheet, its a get what you pay for type of thing. Theres a lot of budget parts there.
Some questions i'd have for him on those builds on his site
What block is he using? Tall Deck or short
What valves are going into these Chinese heads? (Inconel hopefully)
What valve springs is he using?
What lifters?
What rocker arms?
What oil pans?
What compression ratio?
Is the carb a new marine carb or rebuilt automotive carb?
Is there a way to get the engine without the optional cork valve gaskets hanging out of the valve cover?
No offense, but I wouldn't pay 10k dollars for a setup with Chinese heads, Chinese HEI ignition and plug wires, Chinese rods, budget pistons, probably Chinese lifters and rockers. And if its using a production core GM block, I'd really not do it. 4.310 bore is maxxed out on that block.
#16
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Yep, one of the benefits of the 4.5" bore is the valve unshrouding that goes along with it = extra flow and more power. If you are building a towboat engine, then I could see going for max stroke and the smaller bore. My guess is that it is an economy thing - the 4.25 bore blocks are readily available for cheap, and to get that CID you have to max out the bore and throw a really long stroke in there. Trouble is, you run into all kinds of issues like side thrust on the pistons, possibly having to run a small base circle cam, oil pan clearance issues, extra windage, etc.
#17
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Here is a breakdown on the parts going into my motors. Keep in mind I am not wanting to have the highest hp or fastest boat. I am looking for reliability and a nice sound with a little more torque and power than I had with the mismatched engines that I had.
GM HP 4bolt Main Blocks
Forged Diamond Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle Forged Steel Crankshaft
Comp Cams Camshaft
Comp Cams Roller Lifters
Comp Cams Pushrods
Comp Cams Valve Springs Kit
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Pro Comp Aluminum Rocker Arms
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Sets
2 sets of there Aluminum 320cc Heads
MSD Distributors
Taylor 10mm Plug Wires
These are obviously not the best parts money can buy, however for what I am doing with the boat these parts will work just fine. For the last 2 years I have done nothing but get to the lake and only spend a few hrs at a time and hoping when its time to leave the boat cranks and runs without motor issues. The last time we were in the water, one motor spun a rod bearing leaving 4 miles out to get back with only 1 engine. As long as the boat cranks and runs fine after this with minor matainance it is money well spent.
GM HP 4bolt Main Blocks
Forged Diamond Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle Forged Steel Crankshaft
Comp Cams Camshaft
Comp Cams Roller Lifters
Comp Cams Pushrods
Comp Cams Valve Springs Kit
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Pro Comp Aluminum Rocker Arms
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Sets
2 sets of there Aluminum 320cc Heads
MSD Distributors
Taylor 10mm Plug Wires
These are obviously not the best parts money can buy, however for what I am doing with the boat these parts will work just fine. For the last 2 years I have done nothing but get to the lake and only spend a few hrs at a time and hoping when its time to leave the boat cranks and runs without motor issues. The last time we were in the water, one motor spun a rod bearing leaving 4 miles out to get back with only 1 engine. As long as the boat cranks and runs fine after this with minor matainance it is money well spent.
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fixx
ok from what i see and looking at both websites and looking at google with the address's and from talking to a friend on mine that has been their you can walk out of skip whites performance machine shop rite next door to white performance over the counter performance parts..3349 and 3353 are rite next door to each other with maybe a shop in between.. not knocking the guy just posting facts thats all..
#19
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ok from what i see and looking at both websites and looking at google with the address's and from talking to a friend on mine that has been their you can walk out of skip whites performance machine shop rite next door to white performance over the counter performance parts..3349 and 3353 are rite next door to each other with maybe a shop in between.. not knocking the guy just posting facts thats all..
#20
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Here is a breakdown on the parts going into my motors. Keep in mind I am not wanting to have the highest hp or fastest boat. I am looking for reliability and a nice sound with a little more torque and power than I had with the mismatched engines that I had.
GM HP 4bolt Main Blocks
Forged Diamond Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle Forged Steel Crankshaft
Comp Cams Camshaft
Comp Cams Roller Lifters
Comp Cams Pushrods
Comp Cams Valve Springs Kit
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Pro Comp Aluminum Rocker Arms
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Sets
2 sets of there Aluminum 320cc Heads
MSD Distributors
Taylor 10mm Plug Wires
These are obviously not the best parts money can buy, however for what I am doing with the boat these parts will work just fine. For the last 2 years I have done nothing but get to the lake and only spend a few hrs at a time and hoping when its time to leave the boat cranks and runs without motor issues. The last time we were in the water, one motor spun a rod bearing leaving 4 miles out to get back with only 1 engine. As long as the boat cranks and runs fine after this with minor matainance it is money well spent.
GM HP 4bolt Main Blocks
Forged Diamond Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle Forged Steel Crankshaft
Comp Cams Camshaft
Comp Cams Roller Lifters
Comp Cams Pushrods
Comp Cams Valve Springs Kit
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Pro Comp Aluminum Rocker Arms
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Sets
2 sets of there Aluminum 320cc Heads
MSD Distributors
Taylor 10mm Plug Wires
These are obviously not the best parts money can buy, however for what I am doing with the boat these parts will work just fine. For the last 2 years I have done nothing but get to the lake and only spend a few hrs at a time and hoping when its time to leave the boat cranks and runs without motor issues. The last time we were in the water, one motor spun a rod bearing leaving 4 miles out to get back with only 1 engine. As long as the boat cranks and runs fine after this with minor matainance it is money well spent.
Have been here on oso for almost 10 years, and other boating forums before that. Not to mention been playing with boats and engines since I was in high school.
I've seen it so many times, where people are attracted to those ''great prices''. And end up wasting a bunch of money, to only have to do it all again, and hopefully get it right the second time. But you're post stating that you ''don't need nothing fancy, and those parts will suit your boating style just fine, and not looking for a bunch of power. ''
Have heard many cases of the valve stems pitting up on these procomp heads, guides being junk after a short time, generic valve seats that can fall out, burn up, etc. Terribly inconsitant machining, decks out as much as .030 out of the box. What kind of boating is that acceptable for? None is the answer.
I would use a eagle crankshaft, i'd use eagle rods, nothing wrong, and in most cases, they're better forgings than stock GM stuff. But the machine work/clearances has to be checked with a fine comb.
Your parts list wasn't very detailed. The ARP fastners and stuff sound great, and comp cams stuff sounds great. But, more important, GM HP block doesn't tell me much. It could be a old Mark IV block from a 1975 Chevy, or a bowtie block from GMPP, or Gen V from a pickup truck core, and yes, this matters. If its a production block as I've said, and its being bored to 4.310, you'll have no room for rebuild and cleanups. If its a new Dart block, why bore it .060 over from the get go? Its not worth the extra few hp in my opinion.
I honestly think you'd be so much better off spending a bit more money, and going with a better QUALITY cylinder head, dart, edelbrock, etc, and some better rocker arms.