When an XR drive is not enough, is there any other options other than #6 drives?
#41
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I hope I`m not letting the cat out of the bag too soon as these are still being tested but there is what I think is a great product out there to limit the TQ spikes (predetermined custom set ) that a drive sees. Its the TQ spikes that kill gears/drives.
You could essentially put the throttles to the dash in some rough water and upon re-entry (TQ spikes on a 42 Fountain with #6`s were in the 2000tq range) the Drive Guardian 'slips' to limit the TQ spike. The drive will only see the predetermined TQ, never more.
I pulled my motors to put them on but unfortunately my bellhousings did not have enough room accommodate them. (They were originally designed for NXT drives ) External cooler bellhousing should have plenty of room. I was going to have them set at 900FT/TQ. so no matter what (coming in and out of the water) my drives would never see more than 900FT/LBS of torque!
If I had a Bravo boat this would be my top choice. My buddy Mike was going thru a lot of drives and transmissions on his Fountain and decided enough is enough, came up with this and hasn`t broken anything since. The SSM version is pretty much proven, the Bravo version getting the T crossed and I`s dotted.. To me this thing is genius!!
Bravo and SSM versions:
There are a few more pieces not pictured on the SSM version
You could essentially put the throttles to the dash in some rough water and upon re-entry (TQ spikes on a 42 Fountain with #6`s were in the 2000tq range) the Drive Guardian 'slips' to limit the TQ spike. The drive will only see the predetermined TQ, never more.
I pulled my motors to put them on but unfortunately my bellhousings did not have enough room accommodate them. (They were originally designed for NXT drives ) External cooler bellhousing should have plenty of room. I was going to have them set at 900FT/TQ. so no matter what (coming in and out of the water) my drives would never see more than 900FT/LBS of torque!
If I had a Bravo boat this would be my top choice. My buddy Mike was going thru a lot of drives and transmissions on his Fountain and decided enough is enough, came up with this and hasn`t broken anything since. The SSM version is pretty much proven, the Bravo version getting the T crossed and I`s dotted.. To me this thing is genius!!
Bravo and SSM versions:
There are a few more pieces not pictured on the SSM version
#42
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[QUOTE=NautiNuff;4074311]I would hope a pair of 525's with bulletproof outdrives would get me north of 80 in a 33-37 fountain or similar light hull. I'm thinking any boat that could keep up most likely will blast past me and a couple of MPH is not going to make any difference.
XR's on that set up is a reliable set up if maintained and driven with a little common sense, even if you decided to bump up the 525's to say 600's
XR's on that set up is a reliable set up if maintained and driven with a little common sense, even if you decided to bump up the 525's to say 600's
#43
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I can't for the life of me understand why people waste their money on bravo based anything!
If you want to be money well ahead, want far better reliability and resale value... Start with a number six boat.
I have a very nice staggered 37 Outerlimits with dry sump 6's (sitting on a sweet Myco) that I will be likely putting on the market soon that Im willing to sell without power or with zero hour 675-700 hp NA engines that will be blower ready. Beautiful stone reliable package that will run near 100 (well over with blowers if someone chooses to add them) for far less than the $130k you're talking about spending. Why waste money on inferior bravo bandaids that have less reliability or resale and typically slower???
If you want to be money well ahead, want far better reliability and resale value... Start with a number six boat.
I have a very nice staggered 37 Outerlimits with dry sump 6's (sitting on a sweet Myco) that I will be likely putting on the market soon that Im willing to sell without power or with zero hour 675-700 hp NA engines that will be blower ready. Beautiful stone reliable package that will run near 100 (well over with blowers if someone chooses to add them) for far less than the $130k you're talking about spending. Why waste money on inferior bravo bandaids that have less reliability or resale and typically slower???
#45
Geronimo36
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Is anyone using the new bmax? seems like a good option that is pretty much bolt on http://www.bravoshop.net/index.php?main_page=page_3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAnK...e_gdata_player
Last edited by Panther; 02-13-2014 at 07:02 PM.
#46
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why dont more people use Konrads as an option in the sub one thousand horse rang? Heck if i was building an 850ish thirty eight ish foot something or other it really seem like a good choice over crossing my fingers and babying a Bravo derivative. Doesnt seem to horribly expensive for what ya get either. Yes im aware they give up some speed to a smaller Bravo but its a hell of a trade off . . . .few mph for piece of mind when you put the sticks in the kitchen is ok with me. ![Cool](/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
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Everyone has failures but the percentages of broken Konrad drives compared to the amount sold in the performance market is staggering ..
#47
arneson-industries.com
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.??????.. This is another misnomer. The notch has nothing to do with 99% of the applications. Funny everyone's choices lead to a speed loss and I was under the impression we all wanted to go faster. Why does everyone want to settle for less?
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#48
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#49
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Arneson makes a ASD7 bravo conversion that is a lot of bang for the buck with how many parts it comes with, how strong it is, how much speed you gain. Closest thing to a number six out there for less money. They also offer a ASD8 which is better then a number 6 but closer in price.
#50
arneson-industries.com
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God, I wish these rumors were true. If I was brazen enough to ask that price I'd be balling. Check the classifieds, they are listed at "list" price there for about $11k less than that price.
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