Advanced Cat Driving
#22
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Lol
#23
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Tunnel tab bad events occur when tab goes deeper than the rail and takes water from the rail. Also can be bad if left down going over big waves as it can lift transom and lead to stuffing. I believe that keeping the tab level presents no danger as was mentioned before is just an extension of the tunnel.
#24
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What are you referring to as the rail??
The step that trailer bunks support the boat when it's on the trailer?
I ask in an effort to understand & have never heard that term used in reference to a hull other than a splash rail.
The step that trailer bunks support the boat when it's on the trailer?
I ask in an effort to understand & have never heard that term used in reference to a hull other than a splash rail.
Last edited by NASCAT; 04-22-2014 at 02:03 PM.
#25
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Did you add a tunnel tab to stop the porpoise? I have been experimenting with the tunnel tab on my 338 and after talking with Peter @ Skater I should have it neutral with the tunnel or maybe down a bit. I previously had it up and it was planting the ass end off the boat. It really helps the porpoise. I have not tried using it throw the hop when accelerating. The boat rides the best at the century mark. Any information is great as I have very few hours in the boat.
#26
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With not all boat's being the same here's my $.02
I ran my Eliminators outboard to get the best handling and cruise speed, for the brief time that I had naturally aspirated power. I found that it was more difficult to get thru the hop than with the greater HP. The hop for me was only noticeable in flat water less than a true 6" to 1' chop. Aother factor I've noticed is wind direction can change the speed at which the hop occurs (wind over five MPH), cross wind is also something to pay attention to, I've been on LOTO a few times running fast and you reach an cove, or lower elevation bank and a sponson dips due to cross wind. What I try to do is correct in small increments, if it continues reduce the power a few 100RPMs until you get into more stable conditions.
When I ran the MTI "out" I would add a .5" spacer as Nascat was saying the boat feels looser, not to the point of no control just not that comfortable stable feeling you want in a pleasure boat. Running outboard it wanted to hop from 50 to 100 that setup was strictly for testing to get the highest speed and fastest acceleration. The hop running "in" was only around the 75mph mark if I ran 70mph and it crept up to 75mph it would start and take longer to correct than if I throttled up to 85mph than backed down to 80mph. The best cruise was around 110 to 120 the boat set perfect and steering felt great as long as the conditions allowed. The Eliminators needed trim to run, but the MTI I don't think I needed more than 2 numbers on the indicators to run the boat. Get on plane neutral trim up a bit during acceleration and as you reached speed start bumping the trim down a little at a time until the gps shows it that you had gone too far (until you have figured out where it likes to be on the indicators), then back up one touch. Be aware if you are holding tension on the steering wheel one way or another, possibly due to cross wind, unequal drive height or a bigger problem with a skeg. If you are following this method you don't need much trim down to turn the boat when you start your turn it will automatically scrub some speed off allowing the boat to settle and make the turn. The important part is small input into the steering wheel when at high speed.
This probably should have been the first line but check your equipment every time you go out, look for bent skegs small cracks in the gimbal ring, look for broken or damaged control linkage as you ck the oil and ck power steering lines for leaks. It seems like common sense but it can easily get overlooked with the excitement and rush to get going.
I ran my Eliminators outboard to get the best handling and cruise speed, for the brief time that I had naturally aspirated power. I found that it was more difficult to get thru the hop than with the greater HP. The hop for me was only noticeable in flat water less than a true 6" to 1' chop. Aother factor I've noticed is wind direction can change the speed at which the hop occurs (wind over five MPH), cross wind is also something to pay attention to, I've been on LOTO a few times running fast and you reach an cove, or lower elevation bank and a sponson dips due to cross wind. What I try to do is correct in small increments, if it continues reduce the power a few 100RPMs until you get into more stable conditions.
When I ran the MTI "out" I would add a .5" spacer as Nascat was saying the boat feels looser, not to the point of no control just not that comfortable stable feeling you want in a pleasure boat. Running outboard it wanted to hop from 50 to 100 that setup was strictly for testing to get the highest speed and fastest acceleration. The hop running "in" was only around the 75mph mark if I ran 70mph and it crept up to 75mph it would start and take longer to correct than if I throttled up to 85mph than backed down to 80mph. The best cruise was around 110 to 120 the boat set perfect and steering felt great as long as the conditions allowed. The Eliminators needed trim to run, but the MTI I don't think I needed more than 2 numbers on the indicators to run the boat. Get on plane neutral trim up a bit during acceleration and as you reached speed start bumping the trim down a little at a time until the gps shows it that you had gone too far (until you have figured out where it likes to be on the indicators), then back up one touch. Be aware if you are holding tension on the steering wheel one way or another, possibly due to cross wind, unequal drive height or a bigger problem with a skeg. If you are following this method you don't need much trim down to turn the boat when you start your turn it will automatically scrub some speed off allowing the boat to settle and make the turn. The important part is small input into the steering wheel when at high speed.
This probably should have been the first line but check your equipment every time you go out, look for bent skegs small cracks in the gimbal ring, look for broken or damaged control linkage as you ck the oil and ck power steering lines for leaks. It seems like common sense but it can easily get overlooked with the excitement and rush to get going.
#27
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The rail is what your skater is resting on. All cats will have these. They are what allows catamarans to carve turns. Imagine making a left turn. As you turn the left sponson will dip somewhat the boat will want to slide to the right. As the boat starts to slide surface water is forced up the inside face of the sponson til upward flow is blocked by the rail. This allows the left sponson to carve or hold its inside position. At the same time the right sponson is sliding along the deadrise of its sponson. Hooks or spin flips occur when the rail is lost.
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The rail is what your skater is resting on. All cats will have these. They are what allows catamarans to carve turns. Imagine making a left turn. As you turn the left sponson will dip somewhat the boat will want to slide to the right. As the boat starts to slide surface water is forced up the inside face of the sponson til upward flow is blocked by the rail. This allows the left sponson to carve or hold its inside position. At the same time the right sponson is sliding along the deadrise of its sponson. Hooks or spin flips occur when the rail is lost.
That's the type of stuff I want to learn…I think I knew this kinda, but that was a great description. I also watch my thrust drive (outside on a cat, inside on a V) RPMs. If they go up and the bow is going down, something bad is about to happen.
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You can contact me anytime. You remember that I tell every person that goes through my course can contact me for information and helpful hints with everyday skills. I am here in Havasu and will be in LOTO next week.