Start to Finish: Building Our 50' Skater
#1131
Registered
That's probably your best option right now. Been searching also, but I need two of them to monitor 16 cyl... Unless something new has been released in past few months, that's best option I've found for the price. Other cool aeronautical units out there from companies like https://www.jpinstruments.com/
Down side to those gauges, if I recall, ya gotta run 6 K-Type probe cables up to the dash. Since no probes come with 20' leads, ya have to splice in this special bi-metal wire for each probe. I have a roll of it, like $3 a foot, and has to be bolt clamped. Can't use copper wire, can't solder the splices, and it's very resistance picky on accuracy. Not best setup for boats.
If your interested, I've been thinking of having my electronics guru whip out an AD converter on maybe the Arduino platform that mounts on engine and feeds a small LCD same data.
Down side to those gauges, if I recall, ya gotta run 6 K-Type probe cables up to the dash. Since no probes come with 20' leads, ya have to splice in this special bi-metal wire for each probe. I have a roll of it, like $3 a foot, and has to be bolt clamped. Can't use copper wire, can't solder the splices, and it's very resistance picky on accuracy. Not best setup for boats.
If your interested, I've been thinking of having my electronics guru whip out an AD converter on maybe the Arduino platform that mounts on engine and feeds a small LCD same data.
#1132
Registered
#1133
Registered
That's probably your best option right now. Been searching also, but I need two of them to monitor 16 cyl... Unless something new has been released in past few months, that's best option I've found for the price. Other cool aeronautical units out there from companies like https://www.jpinstruments.com/
Down side to those gauges, if I recall, ya gotta run 6 K-Type probe cables up to the dash. Since no probes come with 20' leads, ya have to splice in this special bi-metal wire for each probe. I have a roll of it, like $3 a foot, and has to be bolt clamped. Can't use copper wire, can't solder the splices, and it's very resistance picky on accuracy. Not best setup for boats.
If your interested, I've been thinking of having my electronics guru whip out an AD converter on maybe the Arduino platform that mounts on engine and feeds a small LCD same data.
Down side to those gauges, if I recall, ya gotta run 6 K-Type probe cables up to the dash. Since no probes come with 20' leads, ya have to splice in this special bi-metal wire for each probe. I have a roll of it, like $3 a foot, and has to be bolt clamped. Can't use copper wire, can't solder the splices, and it's very resistance picky on accuracy. Not best setup for boats.
If your interested, I've been thinking of having my electronics guru whip out an AD converter on maybe the Arduino platform that mounts on engine and feeds a small LCD same data.
#1134
Registered
We decided to use the steed speed billet manifold for the exhaust. It flows good and makes more power then the log style manifold. The runners being more equal length will keep the exhaust temps closer together. I just need to find a good way to insulate it. I am leaning towards some kind of blanket for now and after it's in the boat running and I have time, get a hard coat insulation put on it.
The problem is the manifold puts the turbo to far out and would be against the boat or outside the boat. The engine shop designed and is 3D printing an adapter that will rotate the turbo up higher and in closer to the engine. If it clears everything they will machine the adapter out of steel and we will have to hard coat insulate it also.
The problem is the manifold puts the turbo to far out and would be against the boat or outside the boat. The engine shop designed and is 3D printing an adapter that will rotate the turbo up higher and in closer to the engine. If it clears everything they will machine the adapter out of steel and we will have to hard coat insulate it also.
Last edited by BigSilverCat; 08-01-2017 at 05:02 AM.
#1136
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
#1137
Registered
We are building a custom bell housing for the back of the engine that will have the engine mounts built in and we moved the starter from the port side of engine to the starboard so there would be more room for the intercooler on the port side.
I'm using the probe on the Cnc machine to measure the hole diameters,hole locations, center of starter gear and locating boss to input into the model so we will know the correct center distance for the flywheel.
I'm using the probe on the Cnc machine to measure the hole diameters,hole locations, center of starter gear and locating boss to input into the model so we will know the correct center distance for the flywheel.
#1138
Registered
You originally started this build looking to use the Wagler Billet Motor and a two speed transmission, just wondering what happened there it certainly looks a very impressive motor offering up to 3500hp, coupled to your two speed it would have made one impressive revolutionary diesel package in an offshore boat.
Last edited by 999JAY; 08-03-2017 at 03:14 PM.
#1140
Registered
You originally started this build looking to use the Wagler Billet Motor and a two speed transmission, just wondering what happened there it certainly looks a very impressive motor offering up to 3500hp, coupled to your two speed it would have made one impressive revolutionary diesel package in an offshore boat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Retzvxs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Retzvxs
This will be going to court soon so I cannot say much more.. I am not slandering him just stating the facts that I have video tape proof of.
I don't want this thread to go down that road, I will start a new thread about that after we are done. So if people could refrain from talking about the other engines it will be easier..
when he claimed the 3500 hp engine made that much power it had not actually ever started, then when it did start it did not work , in the end it made less then half the claimed power and blew up 4 seconds into a quarter mile run.