Start to Finish: Building Our 50' Skater
#262
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We are using the pop up cleats from Accon marine. We went with the bigger ones so we can get more/bigger ropes on them. I made a jig to mark them the same distance from the side of the boat and then cut the holes and fiberglassed the edges of the holes so we would not get rot. The cleats were also silicone in to minimize the chance of rot. For the nerd level increase, I placed one on each side that is where you can reach it standing in the cockpit (most of the time the boats have three and the back one is to far to reach and the middle ones are usually just forward of the windshield out of reach). I also put one right at the point in the front where the boat starts to curve away from the dock. On alot of boats the middle cleat is pretty far back from the point where it starts to curve away from the dock and the front is too far forward for a fender hanging to be big enough to bridge the gap. I put one right next to the front hatches so when you pull a fender out you can put it right on a cleat, and also put one all the way forward. There are 5 down each side, they are not evenly spaced but pretty close, and they are at usable locations. I also added bigger springs to the latch that holds them down to counteract the g force of the button in big waves, they are a little harder to push but not to bad
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552586[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552587[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552588[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552589[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552586[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552587[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552588[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552589[/ATTACH]
Last edited by BigSilverCat; 03-18-2016 at 11:40 AM.
#263
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We put a solid stainless rub rail on the boat. You never know what kind of bad docking situation we may be in or nasty pilings to tie up to so it was a must. And when we are against the clock we may be coming in fast and not trying to do the best docking job. I think it looks pretty good tho.
For the nerd level 3.0 after we had the rub rail mocked up I drilled all the holes a little bigger then they needed to be and filled them back in with fiberglass. Then drilled and taped the holes for the screw size. The screws are siliconed and through bolted from the back with a fender washer and nylock but by tapping the holes the screw threads with silicone are more water tight then if you just drilled a hole and siliconed the screw in. All 200 screws were sanded and polished before installing them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552599[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552600[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552601[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552602[/ATTACH]
For the nerd level 3.0 after we had the rub rail mocked up I drilled all the holes a little bigger then they needed to be and filled them back in with fiberglass. Then drilled and taped the holes for the screw size. The screws are siliconed and through bolted from the back with a fender washer and nylock but by tapping the holes the screw threads with silicone are more water tight then if you just drilled a hole and siliconed the screw in. All 200 screws were sanded and polished before installing them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552599[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552600[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552601[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552602[/ATTACH]
Last edited by BigSilverCat; 03-18-2016 at 10:48 AM.
#264
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Connecticut
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I'd consider putting some kind of safety wire style attachment points on prop nuts and the prop itself, and a tether on the wrench for while you're doing the swap to take the fear of dropping something off our mind. It seems like an easy thing to do then just clip the wire off the prop and nut once it's on and finger tight. The wrench could just be tethered to the boat so you didn't have to hold onto it while swapping things out.
Amazing project BTW
Amazing project BTW
#265
Neno the mind boggler
![](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/images/icons/prop.gif)
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We put a solid stainless rub rail on the boat. You never know what kind of bad docking situation we may be in or nasty pilings to tie up to so it was a must. And when we are against the clock we may be coming in fast and not trying to do the best docking job. I think it looks pretty good tho.
For the nerd level 3.0 after we had the rub rail mocked up I drilled all the holes a little bigger then they needed to be and filled them back in with fiberglass. Then drilled and taped the holes for the screw size. The screws are siliconed and through bolted from the back with a fender washer and nylock but by tapping the holes the screw threads with silicone are more water tight then if you just drilled a hole and siliconed the screw in. All 200 screws were sanded and polished before installing them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552590[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552591[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552592[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552593[/ATTACH]
For the nerd level 3.0 after we had the rub rail mocked up I drilled all the holes a little bigger then they needed to be and filled them back in with fiberglass. Then drilled and taped the holes for the screw size. The screws are siliconed and through bolted from the back with a fender washer and nylock but by tapping the holes the screw threads with silicone are more water tight then if you just drilled a hole and siliconed the screw in. All 200 screws were sanded and polished before installing them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552590[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552591[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552592[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552593[/ATTACH]
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![Cool](/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#266
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thats a good idea i had a 32B in that had some core damage from water migration at a couple of screw holes. If you are going as far as sanding and polishing all the screw heads you should also align all of the Phillips heads so all the little crosses are oriented the same
(I actually use to do this on some custom car builds i did and it makes a huge visual difference
)
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Cool](/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552596[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552597[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552598[/ATTACH]
#267
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![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Every single bolt in the whole boat is sanded and then polished. It looks better but also stops corrosion from happening as fast because there is less surface area and its smoother. Everything we have bought for it that has bolts in it were taken apart and bolts polished.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552603[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552604[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552605[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552606[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552603[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552604[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552605[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552606[/ATTACH]
Last edited by BigSilverCat; 03-18-2016 at 10:52 AM.
#270
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We put a solid stainless rub rail on the boat. You never know what kind of bad docking situation we may be in or nasty pilings to tie up to so it was a must. And when we are against the clock we may be coming in fast and not trying to do the best docking job. I think it looks pretty good tho.
For the nerd level 3.0 after we had the rub rail mocked up I drilled all the holes a little bigger then they needed to be and filled them back in with fiberglass. Then drilled and taped the holes for the screw size. The screws are siliconed and through bolted from the back with a fender washer and nylock but by tapping the holes the screw threads with silicone are more water tight then if you just drilled a hole and siliconed the screw in. All 200 screws were sanded and polished before installing them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552599[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552600[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552601[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552602[/ATTACH]
For the nerd level 3.0 after we had the rub rail mocked up I drilled all the holes a little bigger then they needed to be and filled them back in with fiberglass. Then drilled and taped the holes for the screw size. The screws are siliconed and through bolted from the back with a fender washer and nylock but by tapping the holes the screw threads with silicone are more water tight then if you just drilled a hole and siliconed the screw in. All 200 screws were sanded and polished before installing them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552599[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552600[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552601[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]552602[/ATTACH]