Start to Finish: Building Our 50' Skater
#401
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thats similar to the method i use. Whenever i work on my boat in my shop or in the water weather it be an oil change or a full engine/drive r&r i use only the tool bag i have on the boat. I use only tools i have on board and add or subtract as necessary and through time you develop a very linear set of tools that will cover all bases. I also add other specific items that i see as necessary.
great great thread . . . .
great great thread . . . .
#402
Registered
[QUOTE=glassdave;4421046]thats similar to the method i use. Whenever i work on my boat in my shop or in the water weather it be an oil change or a full engine/drives are the tool bag i have on the boat. I use only tools i have on board and add or subtract as necessary and through time you develop a very linear set of tools that will cover all bases. I also add other specific items that i see as necessary.
For me I make sure I have three things at all times. #1 beer #2 charged cell phone #3 my boat us tow card lol the phone to call boat us and the beer to drink why I wate and diring the tow back to the dock lol.
For me I make sure I have three things at all times. #1 beer #2 charged cell phone #3 my boat us tow card lol the phone to call boat us and the beer to drink why I wate and diring the tow back to the dock lol.
#403
Registered
I needed to plug this 1 1/4" pipe thread fitting on the sea strainer. Instead of just using that size plug I used a reducer then a 3/4" pipe thread plug. That way if I'm in a hurry and need to use that fitting for something but only need a little hose hooked to it I don't need to try to adapt down from the big fitting and if I need the bigger fitting I just take the whole thing out. Basically gives me options.
This brings up another thing I have done.. Nerd level 3.8 I have a list of every tool that I have used to put something in the boat. When I am in the middle of the ocean I will need to have every tool available to work on the boat that was used to build it. I will have all the normal tools but then there might be somewhere that the only way I can get a bolt out is with 2 - 9/16" open end wrenches. Most people would only have one of each size tool. And this fitting was a good example of why I needed the list. I doubt there is anyone on here that has a 9/16" Allen wrench in there boat tool bag.
This brings up another thing I have done.. Nerd level 3.8 I have a list of every tool that I have used to put something in the boat. When I am in the middle of the ocean I will need to have every tool available to work on the boat that was used to build it. I will have all the normal tools but then there might be somewhere that the only way I can get a bolt out is with 2 - 9/16" open end wrenches. Most people would only have one of each size tool. And this fitting was a good example of why I needed the list. I doubt there is anyone on here that has a 9/16" Allen wrench in there boat tool bag.
Drives me crazy working on american cars and you need four different tools to remove a panel under the dash.
#404
Registered
Obviously you and Chris have done this several times now and thought this through and decided how you are going to do things for a reason. That being said is it possible for you to standardize fittings and fasteners so that you need less tools to work on everything? Seems like a ¾ plug with a hex head would be easier and more standard to work on than an one with a recessed allen head. Not saying what you are doing is wrong just what went through my head reading your post. Maybe it is possible but cost and or time prohibitive.
Drives me crazy working on american cars and you need four different tools to remove a panel under the dash.
Drives me crazy working on american cars and you need four different tools to remove a panel under the dash.
#405
Registered
Taking this further, let's assume the hull breach occurs in some very dicey seas. Would you want a method to divert the intake without opening the engine compartment?
#406
Registered
Tyson
Looking at the photos of your drive setup would you not have been better off using the longer ASD8 stern tubes to help get the props running in cleaner water, this also helps to run the drives flatter as the water leaves the transom on an upward angle or around 2 degrees.
Are you planning on using any sort of trim tabs?
Water intakes look small 1 1/4 ? I ran in a diesel Skater with 750hp 1 1/4 water intakes like yours and in the turns it caveated cooking one motor, those big diesels normally need a lot more water flow than a gas motor especially if they are close water cooled, I am running 2" all the way to the pumps with 1000hp diesel a side.
Looking at the photos of your drive setup would you not have been better off using the longer ASD8 stern tubes to help get the props running in cleaner water, this also helps to run the drives flatter as the water leaves the transom on an upward angle or around 2 degrees.
Are you planning on using any sort of trim tabs?
Water intakes look small 1 1/4 ? I ran in a diesel Skater with 750hp 1 1/4 water intakes like yours and in the turns it caveated cooking one motor, those big diesels normally need a lot more water flow than a gas motor especially if they are close water cooled, I am running 2" all the way to the pumps with 1000hp diesel a side.
Last edited by 999JAY; 03-28-2016 at 02:15 AM.
#407
Registered
We are having the hatches open toward the outside to block water from coming in when the boat is rocking side to side in big seas. There will be a rubber seal that attaches to the bottom edge of the hatch and to the boat to cover the gap between hatch and boat and I'm trying to come up with a way to block the front and back triangles between the hatch and boat. If I had something like a nylon that would kind of stretch and fill in a foot of the gap between hatch and boat it would block the water coming down the deck from just running into the engine compartment and block the back outside corner too.
#408
Registered
Tyson
Looking at the photos of your drive setup would you not have been better off using the longer ASD8 stern tubes to help get the props running in cleaner water, this also helps to run the drives flatter as the water leaves the transom on an upward angle or around 2 degrees..
Looking at the photos of your drive setup would you not have been better off using the longer ASD8 stern tubes to help get the props running in cleaner water, this also helps to run the drives flatter as the water leaves the transom on an upward angle or around 2 degrees..
no we will not have trim tabs.
Water intakes look small 1 1/4 ? I ran in a diesel Skater with 750hp 1 1/4 water intakes like yours and in the turns it caveated cooking one motor, those big diesels normally need a lot more water flow than a gas motor especially if the are close water cooled, I am running 2" all the way to the pumps with 1000hp diesel a side.
#409
Registered
Fresh water flush hose hook up. It has a check valve to keep water from going into engine compartment if you forget to put cap back on and to keep pressure spikes from hitting plastic cap. It is hooked to the water crossover that hooks to the bottom of the sea strainers. By hooking to the engine side of sea strainer basket it will push debris back out the pickup. We will have an electric water pump in the boat so maybe have some way to hook it up and backflow it if we need to out in the middle of the ocean.
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