Boat Pulls Hard Left Under Acceleration
#11
Registered
252 is a single engine. I've ran staggered pitched props before on a Bravo III and that will not cause a pull. That boat should accelerate and track straight and true regardless of speed and rate of acceleration. Something is definitely amiss. Is it just a pull on the wheel and the boat is tracking level or does the hull also torque over when it happens?
#12
*
Platinum Member
**Something is definitely amiss. Is it just a pull on the wheel and the boat is tracking level or does the hull also torque over when it happens?**
I was wondering the same thing .
I regularly run a B3 and a DPS/A and at in gear idle speed you can jab the throttle and the boat lunges straight forward with no dipping on either side .
Not to rule out anyone else's suggestions but I could add that maybe the skeg is twisted .
I was wondering the same thing .
I regularly run a B3 and a DPS/A and at in gear idle speed you can jab the throttle and the boat lunges straight forward with no dipping on either side .
Not to rule out anyone else's suggestions but I could add that maybe the skeg is twisted .
#13
Banned
bravo 3 track straight - u can take your hands off the wheel they track straight. They do produce more wear at the gimbal ring hole / swivel shaft. The reason is the pinch nuts for the U bolt never get check enough. The Bravo 3 requires more checking there because its alot heavier drive to swing / steer thru the water plus with more mass. More times than not when the gimbal ring is worn thru the swivel shaft - the drive will fish tail and alot of times the hull will chine walk at certain speeds.
The laymans test for a the actuator going bad is run the engine / drive on the water hose - at start up did the drive swing to one side and stay there ? - or is the drive oscillating back and forth ? if so most likely a bad actuator and or steering pump .
The laymans test for a the actuator going bad is run the engine / drive on the water hose - at start up did the drive swing to one side and stay there ? - or is the drive oscillating back and forth ? if so most likely a bad actuator and or steering pump .
#14
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: florida
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I am going to go back to look again this weekend, I am hoping I managed to misalign the Trim Tabs, I will report back, How much of a difference between left and right would cause a pulling issue ??
#15
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Trim tabs will mostly effect the boat lean, not pulling to the side as you described. With the boat idling and in N, see if the wheel wants to creep to the left with no hands on wheel. And also see if the wheel creeps to the left when just cruising when you take your hand off the wheel. The older style steering actuators could be adjusted for wheel creep. I believe ‘94ish is when the new design came out and is non adjustable. Possibly if this is the problem, this boat has a left over actuator. The balancing valve is what’s adjusted to correct wheel creep
Edited: Whoops, I see it’s already been mentioned. Didn’t read replies before responding
and as mentioned earlier, check the side to side slop at the drive. More than likely the case
Edited: Whoops, I see it’s already been mentioned. Didn’t read replies before responding
and as mentioned earlier, check the side to side slop at the drive. More than likely the case
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 05-31-2018 at 09:07 AM.
#16
Registered
Agree tabs would make hull lean, not pull.
#17
Forum Regulator
VIP Member
Make sure that no one installed an Outboard Lower Drive Anode like this:
... in place of what should just be a flat (no fin) drive anode
... in place of what should just be a flat (no fin) drive anode
#18
Banned
Trim tabs will mostly effect the boat lean, not pulling to the side as you described. With the boat idling and in N, see if the wheel wants to creep to the left with no hands on wheel. And also see if the wheel creeps to the left when just cruising when you take your hand off the wheel. The older style steering actuators could be adjusted for wheel creep. I believe ‘94ish is when the new design came out and is non adjustable. Possibly if this is the problem, this boat has a left over actuator. The balancing valve is what’s adjusted to correct wheel creep
Edited: Whoops, I see it’s already been mentioned. Didn’t read replies before responding
and as mentioned earlier, check the side to side slop at the drive. More than likely the case
Edited: Whoops, I see it’s already been mentioned. Didn’t read replies before responding
and as mentioned earlier, check the side to side slop at the drive. More than likely the case
the newer style actuator came out in 1991 its was called direct acting.
I would check the actuator for being bad and Bravo 3 s are VERY PRONE for alot of wear thru the gimbal ring swival shaft. Very common. As said no one ever torques the U bolt pinch nuts to spec. Its a 2 time check per year. It never gets done
IMO these 2 are the issues
Last edited by BUP; 05-31-2018 at 09:43 AM.
#20
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Quite possible. My ‘93 has the old style. Just resealed it last week do to the seal wear leaking ps fluid. It now has a very slight creep to it that I will need to adj. since the adj nut gets removed during the rebuild. I thought it was during my research that I read that the new one came out in ‘94????? Just pointing out that he may have the same actuator and condition.
I think your assessment of the steering pin is more likely though
I think your assessment of the steering pin is more likely though