PQ290Enticer

I was looking through another post about a Saber 28 with twins a guy just bought and noticed from his picture r maybe it was one from Saber28 that the lowest lifting strakes go all the way back to the stern. How do you think this boat would handle if they terminated 10 feet or so towards the bow? Like mine on the 29 foot enticer?

Here's a couple pics of mine. I don't know if you can even see the termination point because it's so far forward.
From a logical standpoint, I can see how the setup on this Saber is better for stability. I am not trying to beat this dead horse but I wonder if this was looked at by PQ as an option for the enticer? They built them for years and never thought that this might help with the chine walk issue? Maybe adding strake length to a mold is a 6 figure endeavor? I know that someone did this type of modification to their boat (not a PQ) and it made a positive difference. Bajaman, I know you have a friend that had zero chine walk issues but I have looked around and most have and more importantly to me at least, I have had issues. Anomalies exist everywhere. I also wonder if they ever tried or tested more hp in 290? Seems all performance manufacturers try the next level in hp. Thanks for putting up with this question....again and I look forward to your comments.

apex svt

It’ll do what’s expected and that’s take the lift out of the stern and plant the boat in the water.

Are you having issues with chine walk or excessive stern lift making bad handling manors at higher speeds?

Are you adding way more horsepower than initially intended? If not I’d leave them as it’ll loosen the boat up and make it faster.

Our slingshot had 4ft’ish of lifting strake removed and it settled the boat down a lot.

PQ290Enticer

Thanks for your comment apex, Do you think this modification (adding to) would possibly stabilize my boat? I did have chine walk issues at 60mph but was able to make some mods and now its rock solid. I am adding hp. up from stock 330's to 500hp. Just FYI, If I would not have been able to settle the boat at the 60mph mark I would not have added the power. Are you thinking removing the strakes from the Saber would plant it more? That sounds like you think it would be more stable? Slow it down too correct? I know with the PQ 380 people have also removed some of that lower strake with great results.

TeamSaris

Adding more strake will likely increase stern lift and make your chine walk worse. Honestly....if you're that worried about it, a different hull is in order. Adding 6ft of strake (even if it did help) is a HUGE undertaking
As we discussed on the phone and not knowing your driving history/ability- chine walking can usually be controlled by proper steering input.

PQ290Enticer

TeamSaris, Thanks for your comment. My thought is that the boat is sliding around (chine walking) because there isn't any obstruction (strake) to stop it from doing that. To me, adding to the strakes could be the ticket whether I added a couple feet or brought them all the way back. I see the Saber 28 bottom and wondered about it again. It also makes sense that the boat would ride further out of the water. Probably like you said, not good for my hull.
At this time I don't possess the knowledge and or ability to "drive through" the chine walk. Whenever it started I slowed down. Maybe I will have to learn this year. Again, after my mods it runs great at 60 mph and maybe will be fine all the way up to my new top speed whatever that may be. There are some who say they run 70mph with theirs and no problem. So fingers crossed. Pretty sure I'm not going with another boat although I see your point. Also I understand there are many reasons not to compare my boat to the Saber. Just curious about the strakes and why they work on one hull and not another?
Thanks again for your input and the time on the phone the other day.

glassdave

The strakes are basically used to tune final ride and handling on a given hull during the design and development process. When new hull goes through testing, a running plug may be built and the strake can easily be modified to change ride and lift, after balance and whatever handling goals are achieved final production molds can then be pulled. Lengthening or shortening them may not always be a good thing unless you know what your after and what changes are going to affect other characteristics of the boat, its largely gonna be a trial and error type thing.

TexomaPowerboater

That's my saber! Don't think lifting strakes are your problem. I've had other boats without the strakes running all the way to transom and didn't have issues with chine walk after I figured out how to drive boat correctly. Drivesync/trimsync may help you run your drives at exactly same height, they never move exactly the same so unless your looking back and making sure water coming out of props at same level you won't know that. Mechanical indicators are not precise either. Weight distribution can play a role as well.

PQ290Enticer

TexomaPowerboater, YES!!! That is a pic of your Saber. Like I said, saw it on another post about something completely different and just happen to notice the strakes. I have never heard of a Saber that was not good in the rough water so I must assume that those strakes don't cause any problems with the ride. I wonder equally how your boat would handle with my setup and my boat with your setup? I don't have the deep pockets to just try and find out so maybe the point is moot, however, it still makes sense in my pea brain that they would help. I've also asked about using a shorter drive as a way to settle the boat with varying opinions. In the end, I will probably just work through as is. If I explode a drive, I may look into something better with shorter bottom end. It was pointed out to me that I could always shim back to OE spec's with a shorter drive.
I have just the stock indicators for the drives and no indicators for the tabs. For the tabs I go by "Feel" Not the best I know but it does work ok. I am intrigued by your comment concerning the mechanical indicators. I will admit that those were probably one of my next purchases for the 2024 season. Maybe better tabs too. The bar isn't set real high so I know they are way more accurate than what I have and may make a world of difference for my boat. I haven't ever heard of "Drivesync/trimsync". Is this really a thing? Sounds expensive so I may "settle" for the mechanical stuff.

TexomaPowerboater

Yeah it's real do a youtube search for trimsync or drivesync it will come up. I'm buying them now for the saber. The basic version is $900 and from instructions probably take a day of work if engines already removed. The race version is $1,200-1,400 and probably take twice the time to install.

PQ290Enticer

I saw a video this morning with a guy going to install #8's with turbine engines. That system looks awesome!! Thanks again for that lead.