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10000 LBS. trailer hitch- 1990 38 fountain

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Old 03-14-2004, 10:52 PM
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Troutly, I went back out to the truck and double checked my hitch ratings. Well- WD 10000 and WC 5000. I'll be looking for a new hitch tomorrow. Poolshrk. Thanks Big Guy!
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Old 03-14-2004, 11:46 PM
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Go with the Reese Titan. It carries a 12,000lbs dead weight capacity and a 1,200 lbs tongue load. Very cheap insurance. And as has been said they use the V-5 rating regiment.

As far as hitch pins go, they are in double shear. So unless you use a brittle material, the pin will not be a problem. Anybody care to draw an FBD to describe the joint......anybody.....Buehler

Also, with the advent of the electric over hydraulic brake systems, load distributing hitches are more easily applied to boat trailer applications. Surge brakes were the problem. The elec. over hyd. provide the best of both worlds. They even work correctly in reverse
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Old 03-15-2004, 03:01 AM
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h2o,
That was going to be my point, that the hitch pin is in doulble shear and I doubt there is a truck made that can shear the pin.

Love Machine,
If you're worried about the bolts that hold the reciever to the frame, just weld the reciever to the frame. It won't go ANYWHERE then.

Robert
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Old 03-15-2004, 03:48 AM
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I have a Titan Class V and for a few hundred dollars for the hitch it is the cheapest insurance I have
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Old 03-16-2004, 09:22 AM
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Originally posted by Tonto
..............I would make DAMN sure I had the best brakes that I could get. Surge brakes on a trailer that big should be outlawed as far as I'm concerned, they have to PUSH on the tow vehicle in order to work, can you say jack-knife. Just my 0.02.

Robert
This is why we use the 20K surge coupler on the 10,500lb trailers and above. THe larger piston and increased volume add to braking performance. With a good surge system you should be able to stop with equal to 'slightly' more pedal pressure to when the trailer is not behind you. The brakes are activated before pushing the tow vehicle. I have nearly 20K miles of towing in '04 alone with this system on disk with no problems.

The eletric brake system definatley offers additional features like applying brakes to trailer only and brakes while stoping in reverse. Unfortunately, in a water or saltwater enviroment ... they are a constant job in maintaining magnets, springs rusting, etc.

Eletric / Hyd. disk is the system of choice and are nothing short of spectacular! A GVWR of the 330 Regal and trailer @14,200lbs using this system would stop the trailer and truck at an alarming rate using the trailer brakes alone. Most people do not want the expense of the system. It is expensive even at OEM pricing.
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Old 03-16-2004, 11:44 AM
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Bill
I agree with you on the electric/hydraulic system. I also would not use a totally electric system on any trailer that is going to get dunked in the water, fresh or salt.

I also agree that alot of people aren't willing to spend the money up front on a good braking system. I think to add the vacuum/hydraulic system to the truck and trailer is somewhere around $1000.00. If I were to buy a new trailer I would definitely look at the electric/hydraulic disc brake system. I do have a question though, are you having any trouble with the pistons in the calipers seizing? I've heard that some of the earlier calipers had a problem in this area. Thanks.

Robert
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Old 03-16-2004, 05:25 PM
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Default Is he stupid, a risk taker or just lucky? (Yes me)

Well, I towed my 357 Formula (approx 12,500 pounds with trailer) 2,300 miles (VT to TX) with my stock F-250 hitch. The rating is 5,000 pounds and 500 tongue.

It hauled it fine. (55-60 mph all the way). Looking back it was probably a dumb mistake. But, I made it. There must be a big fudge factor built in. The guy who sold it to me was pulling the thing around with a Suburban and a bumper hitch.

Also, I found out about 100 miles down the road that the trailer brakes didn't work and I blew a tire about 700 miles later.

(I'm so lucky.)

I still don't get the two weight ratings though. Is there a distribution bar I can buy? Aftermarket? That will increase my hitch capacity to 10,000? I was going to buy a whole new hitch.
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Old 03-16-2004, 05:33 PM
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The pin is in double shear. Mucho strong. Proably one of the stronger parts of the whole hitch assembly. If you guys really want a capacity number, I could get one for you.
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Old 03-16-2004, 06:17 PM
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I have a 30,000lb ball on mine. It is overkill, but they don't cost that much more.
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Old 03-16-2004, 07:32 PM
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If you are looking for hitches at a good price order a catalog from Weaver dist, Phone # 1-800-weaver-d.
I ordered a hitch by fax on a monday night and it was at my door step wedesday afternoon.
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