HELP!!! Need Merc 525SC Intake
#11
Beak botr
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I do not believe that the intake in question has the brass water passages as are done on the Merlin intakes (HP500). I use these and with my first build, noticed some water seepage to the exterior on intake, pulled intake to find I just didn't use enough goop to seal the intake gasket, and the salt water got access to the flange joint and it started the corrosion around the outside of the brass cast insert. Just did avert water leakage into lifter valley. Closed cooling is the only real answer to performance parts and salt water.
I ALWAYS flush with salt away for 10 minutes per engine Every Single Time the boat goes out, and still get the galvanic type corrosion on exposed aluminum, cast iron, and stainless components when bolted together. I had a failure of the anodized aluminum fittings used on a cross-over in 6 months time, twice. Once was the fitting on the hose, the other was the fitting that screwed into the cross-over.
Salt Water is the Ultimate Evil to long term durability.
I ALWAYS flush with salt away for 10 minutes per engine Every Single Time the boat goes out, and still get the galvanic type corrosion on exposed aluminum, cast iron, and stainless components when bolted together. I had a failure of the anodized aluminum fittings used on a cross-over in 6 months time, twice. Once was the fitting on the hose, the other was the fitting that screwed into the cross-over.
Salt Water is the Ultimate Evil to long term durability.
Last edited by 88Fount33; 10-17-2011 at 02:45 PM. Reason: Add in comment about flushing
#12
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Your problem is made worse by using salt away. Do a search here...many people have had issues with salt away damage.
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#13
Charter Member # 55
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Thread Starter
I do not believe that the intake in question has the brass water passages as are done on the Merlin intakes (HP500). I use these and with my first build, noticed some water seepage to the exterior on intake, pulled intake to find I just didn't use enough goop to seal the intake gasket, and the salt water got access to the flange joint and it started the corrosion around the outside of the brass cast insert. Just did avert water leakage into lifter valley. Closed cooling is the only real answer to performance parts and salt water.
I ALWAYS flush with salt away for 10 minutes per engine Every Single Time the boat goes out, and still get the galvanic type corrosion on exposed aluminum, cast iron, and stainless components when bolted together. I had a failure of the anodized aluminum fittings used on a cross-over in 6 months time, twice. Once was the fitting on the hose, the other was the fitting that screwed into the cross-over.
Salt Water is the Ultimate Evil to long term durability.
I ALWAYS flush with salt away for 10 minutes per engine Every Single Time the boat goes out, and still get the galvanic type corrosion on exposed aluminum, cast iron, and stainless components when bolted together. I had a failure of the anodized aluminum fittings used on a cross-over in 6 months time, twice. Once was the fitting on the hose, the other was the fitting that screwed into the cross-over.
Salt Water is the Ultimate Evil to long term durability.
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