HELP? I cant get the Power Steerring Bled
07-13-2005, 03:44 PM
#51
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Re: HELP? I cant get the Power Steerring Bled
I got my new to me ride out this last weekend, and i had issues with steering. Like not having any. Went out and it was fine running, but at idle it was VERY hard to steer. Didnt do it when i sea trialed it. Maybe something got shook up in transportation.
You can hear the pump noise when im trying to turn at idle. Someone said to start it up and turn it all the way to the left and right to get any air out. Any other ideas?
You can hear the pump noise when im trying to turn at idle. Someone said to start it up and turn it all the way to the left and right to get any air out. Any other ideas?
07-13-2005, 10:00 PM
#52
Re: HELP? I cant get the Power Steerring Bled
Does the fluid level change much when you shut it off? Some change is normal due to expansion/contraction of the lines, but more is a sign of air. More likely, unless someone recently worked on it and induced air into the system, is some type of restriction in the "pump" circuit. What type of steering system, Bravo w/external and cable, Bravo w/external full hydraulic, ITS, MC6? You could also trace down the pump output line and find if there is an inline filter that could be plugged. If you find it, try removing the element (short term) and see if it works. Keep in mind that if you break open any fittings, don't steer the drives until the engine runs for a few minutes and you don't see any air bubbles returning to the reservoir. If you do turn the wheel while air is in the "pump supply circuit" it will end up in the R&L lines. This will work itself out, but it's easier just to avoid it.
08-03-2010, 04:23 PM
#53
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If you've had the ram lines off, you need to bleed the system at the rams. This is where it gets messy, and you'll use a lot of fluid getting it done.
First step is to make sure the supply/return (pump) circuit is full and bled. That's just a matter of making sure the pump and reservour is full, and cranking the wheel around.
Then the three-person process begins. Crank the wheel to one side and hold it there. Crack the line on the farthest ram from the helm that is supplying pressure to the ram - the one farthest from the extended ram. Let it bleed a bunch of fluid, so you're sure no air is left. While the wheel is in the same position, crack loose the opposite fitting on the opposite ram, let it blee
Make sure the guy (or gal) filling the reservour keeps up the level.
Crank the wheel to the other side, and bleed the opposite fittings, keeping the fluid level up in the reservour.
Repeat about 3 times and you should be good to go. This job sucks. Warm exhaust water blowing in your face, ATF everywhere, it's no picnic. But it should get you where you need to be.
Good luck,
Brian
First step is to make sure the supply/return (pump) circuit is full and bled. That's just a matter of making sure the pump and reservour is full, and cranking the wheel around.
Then the three-person process begins. Crank the wheel to one side and hold it there. Crack the line on the farthest ram from the helm that is supplying pressure to the ram - the one farthest from the extended ram. Let it bleed a bunch of fluid, so you're sure no air is left. While the wheel is in the same position, crack loose the opposite fitting on the opposite ram, let it blee
Make sure the guy (or gal) filling the reservour keeps up the level.
Crank the wheel to the other side, and bleed the opposite fittings, keeping the fluid level up in the reservour.
Repeat about 3 times and you should be good to go. This job sucks. Warm exhaust water blowing in your face, ATF everywhere, it's no picnic. But it should get you where you need to be.
Good luck,
Brian
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