how to switch from trs to bravo
#11
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If you want to send me a breakdown at [email protected] that would be great.
#12
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Do the Konrad conversion. If you've got any mechanical experiance you can easily do it yourself. If you're slow it'll take you two days. You don't need to pull the motors. You'll never break one!
I've still got great deals on them. Give me a call or email and I'll give you the cost break down. You can still sell your TRS drives.
Fionn
[email protected]
510.541.8124
925.952.9623
I've still got great deals on them. Give me a call or email and I'll give you the cost break down. You can still sell your TRS drives.
Fionn
[email protected]
510.541.8124
925.952.9623
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If you have any mechanical experience you can do the Bravo exchange for around $5k per side if you do all the work yourself. Then sell the tranny TRS drive and TRS assem.
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May be a dumb question, but what makes the TRS's so bad. Ive heard the tranny is the weak point, but isnt the TRS a bigger drive than the Bravo ? Which in turn I would assume that the gears are bigger, which should be better, but you know what happens when you assume....Thats why Im asking for an education on the TRS.
Thanks !
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The TRS driver is a far stouter drive than the Bravo. They are longer which makes them slower and limits your prop selection. They're also pretty heavy. They do last much longer than Bravos but have a couple of weak points. They are directional drives which means they move the pinion gear to the front of the lower on the counter rotating drive. This is were they normally fail. The other mode of failure is the bottom vertical shaft bearing, and that's the one that will brake the shaft.
The Konrad shares much of the simplicity of the TRS. They beefed up the cases to prevent flexing and increased the shaft and bearing sizes. They also got rid of the needle bearing at the bottom of the vertical shaft and opted for a roller. They also have a speedy lower unit that sits 1.66" shorter than a TRS. This opens up the door for 4 and 5 blade props.
The Konrad shares much of the simplicity of the TRS. They beefed up the cases to prevent flexing and increased the shaft and bearing sizes. They also got rid of the needle bearing at the bottom of the vertical shaft and opted for a roller. They also have a speedy lower unit that sits 1.66" shorter than a TRS. This opens up the door for 4 and 5 blade props.
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Don't they make extension box conversions from TRS's to Bravo's??
I thought I read about them somewhere. They use a bolt patter for TRS to thr transom and a Bravo bolt pattern for the other end.
I thought I read about them somewhere. They use a bolt patter for TRS to thr transom and a Bravo bolt pattern for the other end.
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why???? If anything I'd upgrade with Konrads...
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I considered this last summer and on my '76 Cig 28SS with small blocks I decided to stay with the TRS. Would my boat go faster with Bravo's? Yes. Would I have more space in the engine room with Bravo's? Yes. Would my boat be any more reliable with Bravo's? Maybe, but the TRS's are working very well, thank you. Would my boat have better resale value with Bravo's? Yes, but let's look at that closer: The best deal on Bravo's (new) is to buy turn key 350's with drives from BAM for about $11k per side (plus shipping, that can't be cheap). Let's assume $2k for transom work. That's $24k. Perhaps I can sell my TRS/trans for $2500 each and the existing 383's for $1000 each. That's $7k back in my pocket plus a bunch of hassle. So I've spent $17k and spent a helluva lot of time on my boat that currently works fine, goes 60 on GPS, and already gets more compliments and thumbs up than any other boat I've ever had. So, in conclusion, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!