Dr. Kobrin..... The birth of Mobil-1
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As promised I would post bi-weekly interesting articles. This is a great one to begin with.
I copied this post from the Consumer Reports site, I thought it was very interesting and that others here would also like to read it.
"First, let me say that I am a retired Mobil employee, so you can decide to ignore me if you have already made up your mind that Industry is evil. I was a Research Chemist at Mobil's main Applied R&D laboratory for over 34 years, including the time when Mobil developed Mobil 1. That was not my project, but I knew many of the chemists and engineers involved.
This product was created at our lab as an outgrowth of Mobil's leadership aviation lubricants. Most jet aircraft then used (and probably still do use) Mobiljet lubricants for their engines. While most automotive engines don't operate at the high temperatures of jet engines, heavy service will cause conventional motor oils to decompose and form sludge, a black paste that coats the inside of an engine to the point that it blocks the oil passages and can cause the engine to self-destruct. That's why oil is drained (while hot!), instead of merely "topped off."
The automotive version of Mobiljet was the talk of the lab, because it easily passed all tests required for brand-new multigrade oil even after 75,000 miles of use. As Mobil was a pretty conservative company, the marketing people planned to claim a drain interval of only 25,000 miles. But finally management decided that such a recommendation would contradict the car manufacturer's requirements, therefore effectively transferring warranty responsibility to Mobil.
So the fact that Mobil 1 was not marketed with an extended drain interval doesn't imply a lack of confidence in the product, but simply an aversion to litigation.
By the way, I saw the results of one of the more recent formulations of the product run on a very severe test against a conventional oil. The conventional oil, after the equivalent of 25,000 miles, had deposited about 1/2" of sludge, having the consistency of cold black butter, in the oil pan. The Mobil 1 product, after 250,000 miles equivalent, left its engine's oil pan looking nearly factory new. We chemists get excited about things like that!
I use Mobil 1 in my cars, keeping to the drain interval in my car owner's manual (7,500 miles, NOT 3,000) until the warranty period is over, then change oil and filter once a year. The way I drive doesn't tax the oil, but my cars do age well. I avoid the nuisance of up to 3 oil changes per year. My net cost is about the same, but I waste less oil.
If I had a performance car, especially with a turbosupercharged engine, I'd definitely use a synthetic lubricant, as heat buildup after engine shutoff, when coolant and oil flow cease, can destroy conventional oil and form nasty carbon deposits in the turbo's bearings.Robert J. Kobrin, Ph.D."
Non-believers...listening??
Why use a synthetic like Mobil-1?....peace of mind..sea below!
I copied this post from the Consumer Reports site, I thought it was very interesting and that others here would also like to read it.
"First, let me say that I am a retired Mobil employee, so you can decide to ignore me if you have already made up your mind that Industry is evil. I was a Research Chemist at Mobil's main Applied R&D laboratory for over 34 years, including the time when Mobil developed Mobil 1. That was not my project, but I knew many of the chemists and engineers involved.
This product was created at our lab as an outgrowth of Mobil's leadership aviation lubricants. Most jet aircraft then used (and probably still do use) Mobiljet lubricants for their engines. While most automotive engines don't operate at the high temperatures of jet engines, heavy service will cause conventional motor oils to decompose and form sludge, a black paste that coats the inside of an engine to the point that it blocks the oil passages and can cause the engine to self-destruct. That's why oil is drained (while hot!), instead of merely "topped off."
The automotive version of Mobiljet was the talk of the lab, because it easily passed all tests required for brand-new multigrade oil even after 75,000 miles of use. As Mobil was a pretty conservative company, the marketing people planned to claim a drain interval of only 25,000 miles. But finally management decided that such a recommendation would contradict the car manufacturer's requirements, therefore effectively transferring warranty responsibility to Mobil.
So the fact that Mobil 1 was not marketed with an extended drain interval doesn't imply a lack of confidence in the product, but simply an aversion to litigation.
By the way, I saw the results of one of the more recent formulations of the product run on a very severe test against a conventional oil. The conventional oil, after the equivalent of 25,000 miles, had deposited about 1/2" of sludge, having the consistency of cold black butter, in the oil pan. The Mobil 1 product, after 250,000 miles equivalent, left its engine's oil pan looking nearly factory new. We chemists get excited about things like that!
I use Mobil 1 in my cars, keeping to the drain interval in my car owner's manual (7,500 miles, NOT 3,000) until the warranty period is over, then change oil and filter once a year. The way I drive doesn't tax the oil, but my cars do age well. I avoid the nuisance of up to 3 oil changes per year. My net cost is about the same, but I waste less oil.
If I had a performance car, especially with a turbosupercharged engine, I'd definitely use a synthetic lubricant, as heat buildup after engine shutoff, when coolant and oil flow cease, can destroy conventional oil and form nasty carbon deposits in the turbo's bearings.Robert J. Kobrin, Ph.D."
Non-believers...listening??
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Why use a synthetic like Mobil-1?....peace of mind..sea below!
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 05-21-2005 at 04:20 PM.
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Interesting, with the new cars telling you when to change your oil, I trieda a synthetic, got twice the mileage before the light came on about 7,500 miles.
On my mercedes, it went almost 14k miles. I thought the sender might be broken.
On my dodge sprinters, mercedes diesel, they use mobil 1 and recommend a 10k oil change, and thats a diesel.
CM
On my mercedes, it went almost 14k miles. I thought the sender might be broken.
On my dodge sprinters, mercedes diesel, they use mobil 1 and recommend a 10k oil change, and thats a diesel.
CM
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Originally Posted by yahoo
Interesting, with the new cars telling you when to change your oil, I trieda a synthetic, got twice the mileage before the light came on about 7,500 miles.
On my mercedes, it went almost 14k miles. I thought the sender might be broken.
On my dodge sprinters, mercedes diesel, they use mobil 1 and recommend a 10k oil change, and thats a diesel.
CM
On my mercedes, it went almost 14k miles. I thought the sender might be broken.
On my dodge sprinters, mercedes diesel, they use mobil 1 and recommend a 10k oil change, and thats a diesel.
CM
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Since you are so knowlegable, how does the sensor work ?
Im under the impression it senses a change in the viscosity of the oil.
Why doesnt the govt make them mandatory, want that save alot of oil, no more worthless oil changes.
CM
Im under the impression it senses a change in the viscosity of the oil.
Why doesnt the govt make them mandatory, want that save alot of oil, no more worthless oil changes.
CM
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I was over on bob's oil site and looking at the merc oil flow study:
Mobile 1 filter flows well @ 10 psi 8.1 oz
Wix filter flows average @ 10 psi 9.1 oz
K&N filter flows well @ 10 psi 14.7 oz
Merc filter flows very good to excellent @ 10 psi 14.8 oz
The Mobile 1 flows very poorly compared to a merc filter. This means in the 3000 rpm range you are going into bypass. Some of your oil is not being filtered. Why is the M! rated higher when the wix will outflow it? Is this marketing?
The K&N only flows well when it is within a hair of the Merc's numbers. I think the K&N is a excellent filter and much under rated.
Why would anyone choose a m1 filter over a merc or K&N unless you run your boat at a low rpm. Why not use a racing filter that will allow your oil to be filtered at the rpm range you normally run? It is great to have super filtration at idle but I don't want to be running in buy pass when my boat is on plane?
Mobile 1 filter flows well @ 10 psi 8.1 oz
Wix filter flows average @ 10 psi 9.1 oz
K&N filter flows well @ 10 psi 14.7 oz
Merc filter flows very good to excellent @ 10 psi 14.8 oz
The Mobile 1 flows very poorly compared to a merc filter. This means in the 3000 rpm range you are going into bypass. Some of your oil is not being filtered. Why is the M! rated higher when the wix will outflow it? Is this marketing?
The K&N only flows well when it is within a hair of the Merc's numbers. I think the K&N is a excellent filter and much under rated.
Why would anyone choose a m1 filter over a merc or K&N unless you run your boat at a low rpm. Why not use a racing filter that will allow your oil to be filtered at the rpm range you normally run? It is great to have super filtration at idle but I don't want to be running in buy pass when my boat is on plane?
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Oil Change sensors,
I have been told that oil change sensors, track number of starts engine rpms and mileage to come up with a oil change light signal. When I had a short comute to work my gm light would come on at about 4000 miles. now that I have a 35 mile drive it comes on about 5500.
I would like to hear the facts on this.
Always mobil-1 so thats not a factor.
I have been told that oil change sensors, track number of starts engine rpms and mileage to come up with a oil change light signal. When I had a short comute to work my gm light would come on at about 4000 miles. now that I have a 35 mile drive it comes on about 5500.
I would like to hear the facts on this.
Always mobil-1 so thats not a factor.
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If I read this right ....the merc filter flows best but what about filter quality ? A fine screen is going to flow better than a fine paper element ...just an example ...
Originally Posted by FlyFast
I was over on bob's oil site and looking at the merc oil flow study:
Mobile 1 filter flows well @ 10 psi 8.1 oz
Wix filter flows average @ 10 psi 9.1 oz
K&N filter flows well @ 10 psi 14.7 oz
Merc filter flows very good to excellent @ 10 psi 14.8 oz
The Mobile 1 flows very poorly compared to a merc filter. This means in the 3000 rpm range you are going into bypass. Some of your oil is not being filtered. Why is the M! rated higher when the wix will outflow it? Is this marketing?
The K&N only flows well when it is within a hair of the Merc's numbers. I think the K&N is a excellent filter and much under rated.
Why would anyone choose a m1 filter over a merc or K&N unless you run your boat at a low rpm. Why not use a racing filter that will allow your oil to be filtered at the rpm range you normally run? It is great to have super filtration at idle but I don't want to be running in buy pass when my boat is on plane?
Mobile 1 filter flows well @ 10 psi 8.1 oz
Wix filter flows average @ 10 psi 9.1 oz
K&N filter flows well @ 10 psi 14.7 oz
Merc filter flows very good to excellent @ 10 psi 14.8 oz
The Mobile 1 flows very poorly compared to a merc filter. This means in the 3000 rpm range you are going into bypass. Some of your oil is not being filtered. Why is the M! rated higher when the wix will outflow it? Is this marketing?
The K&N only flows well when it is within a hair of the Merc's numbers. I think the K&N is a excellent filter and much under rated.
Why would anyone choose a m1 filter over a merc or K&N unless you run your boat at a low rpm. Why not use a racing filter that will allow your oil to be filtered at the rpm range you normally run? It is great to have super filtration at idle but I don't want to be running in buy pass when my boat is on plane?
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The Merc filter is 17+ microns large...that's way big....I posted an article from Bob's site that showed that the Mobil-1 and Amsoil SD are two of the the best trapping and flowing filters. A/C was nest best. It was the "oil filter study".
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Originally Posted by Wobble
Oil Change sensors,
I have been told that oil change sensors, track number of starts engine rpms and mileage to come up with a oil change light signal. When I had a short comute to work my gm light would come on at about 4000 miles. now that I have a 35 mile drive it comes on about 5500.
I would like to hear the facts on this.
Always mobil-1 so thats not a factor.
I have been told that oil change sensors, track number of starts engine rpms and mileage to come up with a oil change light signal. When I had a short comute to work my gm light would come on at about 4000 miles. now that I have a 35 mile drive it comes on about 5500.
I would like to hear the facts on this.
Always mobil-1 so thats not a factor.
The oil sensor looks like it really is not a "sensor" but a computer calculator. How could a sensor really keep track of additive composition; contaminants; base quality; condensation; etc??
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