Hard shifting
#1
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Hard shifting
Starboard motor is getting harder and harder to shift.
I know it must be in the cabling and NOT the gearing simply because it does not clunk or grind giong into gear.
Last season it was more in reverse. Had to basically 'bounce' the shift lever to get it to force in. Now it is doing it in either direction. Last time on the trailer was a b!tch.
I have taken the cable off the brackt from the handles back.
But until I can get it in the water to run the motor I cannot try the shifter from the mechanism to the drive.
Question I have is someone told me about a cap you can take off to inspect the shift point on the drive. Without removing the drive.
what and where is this? If it is even possible.
BTW, 1999 Bravo 1 Drive LWP with 1.5 gears
Thanks
I know it must be in the cabling and NOT the gearing simply because it does not clunk or grind giong into gear.
Last season it was more in reverse. Had to basically 'bounce' the shift lever to get it to force in. Now it is doing it in either direction. Last time on the trailer was a b!tch.
I have taken the cable off the brackt from the handles back.
But until I can get it in the water to run the motor I cannot try the shifter from the mechanism to the drive.
Question I have is someone told me about a cap you can take off to inspect the shift point on the drive. Without removing the drive.
what and where is this? If it is even possible.
BTW, 1999 Bravo 1 Drive LWP with 1.5 gears
Thanks
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Last edited by MnFastBoat; 06-03-2005 at 01:22 PM.
#2
Charter Member #601
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Re: Hard shifting
Mn,
If you can pull the kill cord and spin the motor over without it starting, you can try shifting it then. It should go into gear with some force. I turn them by hand and can shift them off of the boat. Spin it and push on the lever, if it goes easy.. then cable to sticks is sick.. If not, cable to drive may be rusted or bent. You can drain some fluid and pull the back cover off. The lower compartment under the back cap contains the shift linkage. If you get that far and need help.. give me a call.. Glad to explain what goes on in there..
Dick
616-335-8446.. not too late please, need my beauty sleep..
If you can pull the kill cord and spin the motor over without it starting, you can try shifting it then. It should go into gear with some force. I turn them by hand and can shift them off of the boat. Spin it and push on the lever, if it goes easy.. then cable to sticks is sick.. If not, cable to drive may be rusted or bent. You can drain some fluid and pull the back cover off. The lower compartment under the back cap contains the shift linkage. If you get that far and need help.. give me a call.. Glad to explain what goes on in there..
Dick
616-335-8446.. not too late please, need my beauty sleep..
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Re: Hard shifting
Mr. G, Thanks for the input
Unfortunatly the way my kill switches are I cannot turn the motor over when pulled. Switches are completly dead.
I know the cable from the sticks to the shifter on the manifold is OK.
It is from there back I am not sure of.
Someone had told me that it could be a ball type lever on top of the shift clutch? in the drive that could be the culprit.
And that is what I want to find out how to look into
Unfortunatly the way my kill switches are I cannot turn the motor over when pulled. Switches are completly dead.
I know the cable from the sticks to the shifter on the manifold is OK.
It is from there back I am not sure of.
Someone had told me that it could be a ball type lever on top of the shift clutch? in the drive that could be the culprit.
And that is what I want to find out how to look into
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#4
Re: Hard shifting
Hey...
Not sure if you saw it but there is another guy with a Bravo one starboard drive hard shifting too.
Maybe that post could help you too?
Just a thought. Didn't have time to read that whole thread.
Good luck.
Not sure if you saw it but there is another guy with a Bravo one starboard drive hard shifting too.
Maybe that post could help you too?
Just a thought. Didn't have time to read that whole thread.
Good luck.
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Re: Hard shifting
Curious also if item #10 or 14 could be the broblem.
Put it looks like I would need to pull the drive to find this out
Put it looks like I would need to pull the drive to find this out
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Re: Hard shifting
Originally Posted by fund razor
Hey...
Not sure if you saw it but there is another guy with a Bravo one starboard drive hard shifting too.
Maybe that post could help you too?
Just a thought. Didn't have time to read that whole thread.
Good luck.
Not sure if you saw it but there is another guy with a Bravo one starboard drive hard shifting too.
Maybe that post could help you too?
Just a thought. Didn't have time to read that whole thread.
Good luck.
once I get it into gear, everything is just find.
No power loss, slippage or grinding/cluncking going in or out of gear.
Actually, now that I think about it, going into neautral from either gear is easy. No problems at all. Only 'getting' into gear
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This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
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#7
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Re: Hard shifting
Mn,
You could pull the 12v from the coil and it would turn over but not fire.. not sure how your's is setup.. but the theory works.. turn it over without firing..
Next I would pull the back cap. There is a cylinder with a ball and spring in it that presses against the linkage to let it snap in and out of gear. They do break and should be well greased. Go to where you got the pick of that transom assy and look at the Universal Joint/Shifter components page.. That gives you the layout. #3 is the pin/spring/ball.. pushes against #15 linkage..
hope that helps. Otherwise, pull the drive, but it is harder to rotate by hand and shift with needle nose pliers. If you do pull the drive, the linkage should be free moving, back and forth..
Good luck.. let us know..
You could pull the 12v from the coil and it would turn over but not fire.. not sure how your's is setup.. but the theory works.. turn it over without firing..
Next I would pull the back cap. There is a cylinder with a ball and spring in it that presses against the linkage to let it snap in and out of gear. They do break and should be well greased. Go to where you got the pick of that transom assy and look at the Universal Joint/Shifter components page.. That gives you the layout. #3 is the pin/spring/ball.. pushes against #15 linkage..
hope that helps. Otherwise, pull the drive, but it is harder to rotate by hand and shift with needle nose pliers. If you do pull the drive, the linkage should be free moving, back and forth..
Good luck.. let us know..
#8
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That is exactly what was wrong!!!
Just thought I would bring this back up for reference
Just thought I would bring this back up for reference
Mn,
You could pull the 12v from the coil and it would turn over but not fire.. not sure how your's is setup.. but the theory works.. turn it over without firing..
Next I would pull the back cap. There is a cylinder with a ball and spring in it that presses against the linkage to let it snap in and out of gear. They do break and should be well greased. Go to where you got the pick of that transom assy and look at the Universal Joint/Shifter components page.. That gives you the layout. #3 is the pin/spring/ball.. pushes against #15 linkage..
hope that helps. Otherwise, pull the drive, but it is harder to rotate by hand and shift with needle nose pliers. If you do pull the drive, the linkage should be free moving, back and forth..
Good luck.. let us know..
You could pull the 12v from the coil and it would turn over but not fire.. not sure how your's is setup.. but the theory works.. turn it over without firing..
Next I would pull the back cap. There is a cylinder with a ball and spring in it that presses against the linkage to let it snap in and out of gear. They do break and should be well greased. Go to where you got the pick of that transom assy and look at the Universal Joint/Shifter components page.. That gives you the layout. #3 is the pin/spring/ball.. pushes against #15 linkage..
hope that helps. Otherwise, pull the drive, but it is harder to rotate by hand and shift with needle nose pliers. If you do pull the drive, the linkage should be free moving, back and forth..
Good luck.. let us know..
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My shifters are getting a little tight and the cables operate smoothly when disconnected at engine. They aren't bad, but if this is as easy as it seems..... correct me if I got this wrong!
Just pull rear drive cap part #36 and then I can access this pin/spring/ball (not sure which part number it is on the diagram) and replace?
Just pull rear drive cap part #36 and then I can access this pin/spring/ball (not sure which part number it is on the diagram) and replace?
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Very easy to do,
hardest thing is finding a 12point socket and most likely, well at least I had too, was grind down the outer thickness of the socket to fit into the are for the bolts.
You will loose some fluid, but not much.
I found the ball to be dry, crusty and stuck!
soaked it at work in some parts cleaner, was able to get it seperated, cleaned it all up and lubed a little and have not had an issue since what ever day I did this
hardest thing is finding a 12point socket and most likely, well at least I had too, was grind down the outer thickness of the socket to fit into the are for the bolts.
You will loose some fluid, but not much.
I found the ball to be dry, crusty and stuck!
soaked it at work in some parts cleaner, was able to get it seperated, cleaned it all up and lubed a little and have not had an issue since what ever day I did this
My shifters are getting a little tight and the cables operate smoothly when disconnected at engine. They aren't bad, but if this is as easy as it seems..... correct me if I got this wrong!
Just pull rear drive cap part #36 and then I can access this pin/spring/ball (not sure which part number it is on the diagram) and replace?
Just pull rear drive cap part #36 and then I can access this pin/spring/ball (not sure which part number it is on the diagram) and replace?
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This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs