Bravo 1 shifting problems.
01-19-2006, 01:37 PM
#22
Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
Originally Posted by Mr Gadgets
Tmone,
Disconnect the cable from the bracket that goes up to the shifter. Make sure the motor is running and try to shift it at the bracket. Becarefull no good to be in the engine compartment while it is running, but....
If it still shifts hard, pull the drive and move the cables. If it frees up, then it is in the drive. You can pull the back cap off and take a look. The ball detent can get messed up.. after that. Well time for the book or a mech.. to look into it.. If you want to dig deeper I would be glad to help with advice..
Dick
Disconnect the cable from the bracket that goes up to the shifter. Make sure the motor is running and try to shift it at the bracket. Becarefull no good to be in the engine compartment while it is running, but....
If it still shifts hard, pull the drive and move the cables. If it frees up, then it is in the drive. You can pull the back cap off and take a look. The ball detent can get messed up.. after that. Well time for the book or a mech.. to look into it.. If you want to dig deeper I would be glad to help with advice..
Dick
01-20-2006, 11:26 AM
#24
Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
I believe the ball detent might be the problem and from what I understand it's in the upper part of the drive, which is technically part of the lower unit. So, I beg to differ.
01-20-2006, 11:34 AM
#25
Registered
Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
Originally Posted by Harper220
I believe the ball detent might be the problem and from what I understand it's in the upper part of the drive, which is technically part of the lower unit. So, I beg to differ.
01-20-2006, 12:33 PM
#26
Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
Actually the term lower unit comes from the outboard days, and is the lower gearcase of an outdrive or outboard. Many even share alot of the common same parts ! If you had changed the the upper driveshaft assembly, when you went for a whole different drive, then the shifting problem could have been eliminated. If you put a lower gearcase on an upper with a problem, it's not going to fix the problem. It's like going to the shoe store with a toothache. . Unlike an alpha or even an outboard, the lower on a bravo is a fixed gearbox with no shifting ability. They should have made the upper fixed as well and used a transmission, but Merc. would have spent more to produce, made less money and experience less breakdowns which = huge profits all around for Merc.
. Unlike an alpha or even an outboard, the lower on a bravo is a fixed gearbox with no shifting ability. They should have made the upper fixed as well and used a transmission, but Merc. would have spent more to produce, made less money and experience less breakdowns which = huge profits all around for Merc.
01-20-2006, 01:10 PM
#27
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Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
pull the back cover off
takes only a few minutes
you will actually spend more time cleaning up the oil versus turning the wrench, so drain the drive first
Best personal and easiest fix i have ever done on my boat.
and well worth the time
Thanks again Mr. Gadgets
takes only a few minutes
you will actually spend more time cleaning up the oil versus turning the wrench, so drain the drive first
Best personal and easiest fix i have ever done on my boat.
and well worth the time
Thanks again Mr. Gadgets
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01-20-2006, 02:13 PM
#28
Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
If you get water in the drive the shift detent ball and spring can get hung up. I just remembered this, recently I took apart an early style drive and the parts in this area were rusty. Water had entered , due to corrosion around where the rear cap meets the case. Also must clean where the shift slide opening is. The o-ring area should be cleaned and painted if necessary. Sealer should be used, as well as new o-rings, on these areas.
Sometimes spraying penetrating oil in the shift slide cavity will loosten up a sticky shift mechanism. This may not always be a real lasting fix.
These drives were made to be shifted only when running, hence the timing marks on the gears, basically works like a manual tranny with syncros. , the power helps engage/disengage the cone clutches. BBB
Sometimes spraying penetrating oil in the shift slide cavity will loosten up a sticky shift mechanism. This may not always be a real lasting fix.
These drives were made to be shifted only when running, hence the timing marks on the gears, basically works like a manual tranny with syncros. , the power helps engage/disengage the cone clutches. BBB
01-20-2006, 06:16 PM
#29
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Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
When this detent ball under the cover needs service does it usually shift hard both ways? forward and reverse or can it just be hard one way. My xr shifts hard forward but like butter into reverse. My mechanic worked on it once already last summer saying there had been a bulletin on something that he changed or upgraded. That only mildly improved it for a while. Now it's right back to hard shifting in forward. Am I a candidate to take off this back cover? I think it time for me to tear into it. 
01-20-2006, 06:39 PM
#30
Charter Member #601
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Re: Bravo 1 shifting problems.
Harper,
Upper is where all the shifting is done on the Bravo drive. Changing the lower wont help improper shifting.. sorry. I have seen the ball jamed in to the socket from corroision, broken from ??? and anything in between. A look see will tell you. The cap comes off, the oil goes all over, unless you drain it. The ball is mounted in a socket, one spring is in the socket to hold the ball tight and one spring is in the cap/socket to hold the whole thing against the lever that turns the shift rod that moves the cams on the shift fork... If anything is binding.. hard shifting. The gears must be moving inorder for the cone clutch to move and shift into the other gear.. The bearings that mount the shift rod can be damaged or dry. The rod can be bent or galled.. Lots going on here for proper operation. Cables are main concern.. Pull the drive and see what effort it takes to move the shift lever. Should be very little effort required with the drive removed..
Lets see did I miss something.. oh yeah Zahndok.. I would think binding in the shift rod may cause the one way difficult shift.. But a cable could do it too.. Hard to tell without taking it apart..
Hope this helps..
Dick
Upper is where all the shifting is done on the Bravo drive. Changing the lower wont help improper shifting.. sorry. I have seen the ball jamed in to the socket from corroision, broken from ??? and anything in between. A look see will tell you. The cap comes off, the oil goes all over, unless you drain it. The ball is mounted in a socket, one spring is in the socket to hold the ball tight and one spring is in the cap/socket to hold the whole thing against the lever that turns the shift rod that moves the cams on the shift fork... If anything is binding.. hard shifting. The gears must be moving inorder for the cone clutch to move and shift into the other gear.. The bearings that mount the shift rod can be damaged or dry. The rod can be bent or galled.. Lots going on here for proper operation. Cables are main concern.. Pull the drive and see what effort it takes to move the shift lever. Should be very little effort required with the drive removed..
Lets see did I miss something.. oh yeah Zahndok.. I would think binding in the shift rod may cause the one way difficult shift.. But a cable could do it too.. Hard to tell without taking it apart..
Hope this helps..
Dick
