cooltoys61

I believe when I built my motors I removed the center bypass and left the outside one Factory at 11#. I have retraced my lines many times and the flow is from the outside on the block to the outside on the filter(remote)then to the front of oil cooler(water is currently bypassing cooler)and out the back to the inside of the block adapter. I am reading 60+PSI at the dash and 55 cold and 25 at idle warm on a mech gauge at the filter inlet (the other one with the "in" arrow on it that is usually plugged). After 20 mins at 3000 rpm my oil in pan seems warm but the filter is cool. Water temps are 135.

mjb

you should not be using the 11# bypass with the external filter/cooler setup. The bypass is more than likely opening up therefore the oil is not going thru your filter/cooler. You should remove the bypass and replace it with a 30# version. You were correct to remove the bypass at the center of the filter pad. It served no purpose with this setup.

articfriends

If your using a high volume pump and external cooler w/stock restricted lines the 11lb bypass will definately open. I'm going to post a thread in next few days showing how deficient the stock fittings are compared to aftermarket ones,its amplified when running a high volume pump,Smitty

cooltoys61

uuuhhh,,little embarassed here,,,,,,My adapter has the center offset a little and after the 10th look I realized my lines were crossed. Took it out and now I've got an oil temp and warm filter!! What I don't understand is how I had oil pressure at the "in" ftting of my remote mount and on the dash and the motors lived for several hours and also a few mins at 4700!!! Is it possible my removal of the ctr bypass and leaving the 11# side one allowed the oil to circulate just not filter? Can't believe I did this after knowing it was a concern and carefully transfering lines etc,,oh well, I was very lucky,oh yeah, my filters all had anti drain back valves!!