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Old 04-28-2010, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rookie
It is not on the block, it is on the Merc remote filter pad.
See my stupidy comes to the surface.. Maybe I can get a job as a tech guy now..

Thanks for the clarity on that.. Like I said never had a gen 5 or 6 so thats my excuse..haha..
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:27 AM
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Are you positive that dart blocks do not have the bypass valve on the filter pad???
Originally Posted by articfriends
After market blocks do not have a bypass hole/spring at filter adapter area. It is a MUST to run a high flowing filter preferably with a built in bypass relief valve,large enough lines,fittings etc other wise you can shear off distributer pin,wear cam gear out fast or at a minimum the pump bypass relief will open too much causing your oil to become aereated,Smitty
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by articfriends
I'm posting this thread to help out some of you guys who are having serious oil pressure problems. I see guys on this bd alot asking questions about oil pressure issues,oil temp issues etc,i'm going to show some potential problems that might be causing alot of your grief.I am not a expert by any means BUT I have had the same problems and questions when i started modifying my original gen 6 502 5 years ago. Your oil systems need to be "optimized" to make your motors live,it will cost you a few dollars BUT do you really want to be rebuilding your motor twice or missing valuable boating time? A stock 502 or 454 has a tiny oil cooler and tiny fittings thru out the stock oil system.When your motor is still original everything works ok because a stock motor has very tight rod and main clearences (under .002) and has a std volume oil pump. The average guy builds up his motor,rebuilds a blown up motor or finds another motor and builds it up,typically you end up with rod and main clearences around .0025-.003. Sure,if you can find a super high quality machine shop that can hold tolerances perfect you could run things tighter but typically those clearences are what you end up with. The first thing you have to do is run a high volume oil pump( yes,everyone knows this) but heres where the problems start-if your running a gen 5 or 6 block and it started life as a crate engine,it has 11lb bypass relief valves. If your motor has unknown origin,who knows what it could have. Buy a new 30lb bypass relief valve for the outside(the one near edge of block casting for filter adapter) or plug it off,they are available at your local chevy dealer part #25013759,they are under 5$. The middle valve directs oil to the cooler fittings on side of the block that are not used in boats,leave it out completely. These valves open from a pressure differential,if your high volume pump puts out enough gallons per minute of oil to pump lets say 8 gpm and create 75 psi and your stock system will only flow 6gpm at 55psi then your block bypass will open and your oil will not go to your cooler and filter. Your motor will then get unfiltered hot oil. The new 30 psi valve will help to prevent this from happening.
Does the HP motor have this 11lb or 30lb relief?
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Old 06-29-2010, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 90mphRAGE
Does the HP motor have this 11lb or 30lb relief?
Not sure,Smitty
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Old 06-29-2010, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by blownboat
Are you positive that dart blocks do not have the bypass valve on the filter pad???
My dart big m and merlin 2 had no built in relief valves that I know of,Smitty
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:20 AM
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forgive my ignorance but are the 496 HO's any different than the 502's when it comes to all this?????
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Old 07-03-2010, 04:47 PM
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Default Bypass valve

So after reading through all the forums I need to make sure I understand this completly since my motor is fresh from builder. I am using a remote oil filer and I pulled the 2 bypass valves today and the one on the side says its a 35lb and the one in the middle under the oil filter nipple was a 45lb. So I should leave the center one out and use a 35lb on the side and thats it???? Motor has been out for almost a year now and still figureing out the wiring and hoses. The oil out should go to the remote filter then to the oil cooler? Is this correct?
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Old 07-07-2010, 06:28 PM
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Does anyone know where I can install a oil temp sender on a 500efi? I think my condensation is from cool oil. I noticed there's a 1/4" hex plug in the remote housing & in the block adapter. Could one of these be drilled & tapped or is there somewhere already prepped? There's already a wire in the harness (brown/white) to the gauges, but engine side is not hooked to anything, so I assume it's not a required part of the engine electronic system, or am I missing something?
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Old 07-07-2010, 06:31 PM
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the remote filter adapter is a good choice for your temp sender
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Old 07-07-2010, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Griswald
the remote filter adapter is a good choice for your temp sender
Ditto ...the sender should be 1/8" pipe ...you just need an adapter ... 1/8x1/4 ..... you can use the Brn/wht ...I think that was for trim posistion (elec) ..... .m

Gaffrig makes a 1/4" sender ..... depends on your gauge though ......

http://www.gaffrigperformance.com/Pr...SubCategory=18

Last edited by offthefront; 07-07-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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