oil pressure problems from stock hardware
#21
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Good info Smitty; especially about bends, elbows and fittings. When I was redoing a pair of 502s I took the opportunity to change the oil plumbing. whoever did it before had used 3 brass 90s between the block adaptor and the oil filter housing. I also changed the bypass as you said, eliminating the 4@90 degree turns within the block (that passage that directs oil to GMs oil cooler connection.) Getting rid of those restrictions means more pressure and flow actually gets to the engine.
How is the boat running?
How is the boat running?
#22
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Originally Posted by tomcat
Good info Smitty; especially about bends, elbows and fittings. When I was redoing a pair of 502s I took the opportunity to change the oil plumbing. whoever did it before had used 3 brass 90s between the block adaptor and the oil filter housing. I also changed the bypass as you said, eliminating the 4@90 degree turns within the block (that passage that directs oil to GMs oil cooler connection.) Getting rid of those restrictions means more pressure and flow actually gets to the engine.
How is the boat running?
How is the boat running?
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#23
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I also had oil temp and pressure problems on my modified 502 MPI's. Had temps that were going to 300 degrees on full throttle runs. I purchased the entire setup from the 2002 500EFI including the oil cooler that mounts in the back and the steering cooler. their housing that mounts to the block has a thermostat and a pipe opening where I mounted a oil temp sending unit. I also took out the elec oil temp guages and ran mech oil pressure guages. All oil and temp problems are now gone and engines stay in normal ranges. The only drawback is the cost, but everything bolts in perfectly.
#25
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From the posts I have read from Wobble...he is now my CEO...Wobble knows his stuff!!
Welcome to Hydro-Oil![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
How long have you beeen using Mobil-1 filters and Mobil-1 20W-50 V-twin?
Welcome to Hydro-Oil
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How long have you beeen using Mobil-1 filters and Mobil-1 20W-50 V-twin?
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#26
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the owner of the shop that dynoed my motors told me synthetic oil is a waste of money...i think i'll be running the m1 v-twin as good oil is less exspensive then engine parts
#27
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Originally Posted by ratman
the owner of the shop that dynoed my motors told me synthetic oil is a waste of money...i think i'll be running the m1 v-twin as good oil is less exspensive then engine parts
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Hydro,i recently talked to carlos at sentinel and he wouldn't give me exact percentages but he said they have a high zddp level,their base stock is a partial diester blend and of course they have a high level of virgin molybendmium dissulfide indefinately suspended in their oil,Smitty
#30
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I just had to bring this one back up. While I was working on my engines, I remembered that someone hed asked how to plug the oil bypass. I had this done at the shop that rebuilt my engines because this way all oil goes through the filter and cooler. I was told to watch my oil pressure gauges to make sure that the filter wasn't getting plugged. So far with normal oil changes, I haven't noticed any change in oil pressure. You can see from the picture it is a 20mm dia. freeze type plug driven in and staked in four places.
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