Marine Lubrication
07-23-2008, 07:16 AM
#1321
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I don't mean to be disrespectful or anything, but the difference in price to me is nickels over the long run. Me personally, I use AMSOIL Series 2000 Racing Oil in my boat, and still have not actually seen any factual evidence of the Mobil V twin being better. There has been a lot of hearsay about it being better, but nothing in writing. An oil change on my twin 496ho's costs me, with filters, about $230. Each HO takes 10 quarts. The oil runs about $9.00/qt and the filters about $15 ea. I buy two cases, which is 12 qts each, leaves me a little for any additional needed, and I run it for one year.
Cheers
07-23-2008, 07:27 AM
#1322
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Hey, Cmoney, maybe I should send some information on Oil Analysis. Have you ever done anything like that? Instead of changing my oil, I just have it analyzed by an independent lab. If the oil is still good, why change it?!! I've known people to go minimally 3-5 times longer than oem recommendations on oil changes. Now what could that save you. Oil tests run $15. Not to mention, it tells you how the oil is, any wear metals in oil, antifreeze, water dilution, fuel dilution and on and on. So lets say, instead of changing oil at 25 hours, you just test it, and comes back fine, now you just saved yourself $185, just because you ran twice as long now. Let me know what you think.
07-23-2008, 04:09 PM
#1323
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Hey, Cmoney, maybe I should send some information on Oil Analysis. Have you ever done anything like that? Instead of changing my oil, I just have it analyzed by an independent lab. If the oil is still good, why change it?!! I've known people to go minimally 3-5 times longer than oem recommendations on oil changes. Now what could that save you. Oil tests run $15. Not to mention, it tells you how the oil is, any wear metals in oil, antifreeze, water dilution, fuel dilution and on and on. So lets say, instead of changing oil at 25 hours, you just test it, and comes back fine, now you just saved yourself $185, just because you ran twice as long now. Let me know what you think.
If a tough oil like V-Twin is free of gas and water I have run an analysis with a tbn which told me I can extend to another 30 hours out. 50 hrs total.
07-23-2008, 04:18 PM
#1324
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This guy races and knows his stuff...you will find mostly pure PAO Motul and the upper end Amsoil products in his cupboard. Looks like some Mobil-1 V-win and MXT-4 as well. Amsoil 5W-30 Signature as well. Also, Amsoil 20W50 V-Twin,
The guy knows what works for Racing/HP engines. Looks like it's 99.9% synthetic.
The guy knows what works for Racing/HP engines. Looks like it's 99.9% synthetic.
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 07-23-2008 at 05:15 PM.
07-23-2008, 10:12 PM
#1325
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Hey, Cmoney, maybe I should send some information on Oil Analysis. Have you ever done anything like that? Instead of changing my oil, I just have it analyzed by an independent lab. If the oil is still good, why change it?!! I've known people to go minimally 3-5 times longer than OEM recommendations on oil changes. Now what could that save you. Oil tests run $15. Not to mention, it tells you how the oil is, any wear metals in oil, antifreeze, water dilution, fuel dilution and on and on. So lets say, instead of changing oil at 25 hours, you just test it, and comes back fine, now you just saved yourself $185, just because you ran twice as long now. Let me know what you think.
07-24-2008, 07:48 AM
#1326
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I use a company in Spokane, WA. Its called OIL ANALYSIS LAB. I use them instead of AMSOIL own lab, just because I've never wanted people to think it might be biased or whatever. You live in Michigan too, right? Send me a PM if you want, I can get you some more info.
07-24-2008, 08:56 PM
#1327
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09-18-2008, 01:45 PM
#1328
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I was asked in light of new synthetic formulations that are now on the market to provide some insight on what to use and where.
Any boat..be it pleasure or offshore...from a 4 cylinder to a 1100 HP Sterling:
-The New Mobil-1 15W-50 Silver Cap will perform very well (new tougher film strength) and should last up to 40 hours except in very hard use or racing. It is very easy to get and at Wally World is $6.25/qt.
-For very hard racing or offshore use and for maximum protection on any boat we have found that Mobil-1 20W-50 V-twin is tops as there is no moly and just a ton of ZDDP for anti-wear. If you are okay with $9.00/qt oil then this is what you ought use and don't look back. Redline 20W-50 and Amsoil 20W-50 Racing are in this same catagory. Once again you should get 40 hours from this oil even if you do run hard.
We have found that K&N and Wix Racing oil filters have an edge on both filtration and flow. I am getting a warm and fuzzy feeling about K&N filters as they just seem to have a very tough case and the build quality is very strong. So if you run hard that is a consideration. Where max flow is needed and the filtration is a bit less of a priority; the Orange Fram Racing Filters are tops for racing where flow counts and the oil is changed after every race anyways.
Outdrives:
RP 75W-90
M-1 75W-90
Amsoil Severe gear 75W-90
All seem to be a notch above Merc HP which is still real good stuff in my books.
Personally I would use M-1 75W-90 changed with every other oil change and a drive shower is a must.
For you fanatics...Both pressure and vaccuum check your outdrive seals with every lube change. If you don't know what you are doing you can ruin the seals...so read up before you try this on your own or you can actually blow a seal doing this.
Hope that helps!
Have a great 2007 boating season!!
Any boat..be it pleasure or offshore...from a 4 cylinder to a 1100 HP Sterling:
-The New Mobil-1 15W-50 Silver Cap will perform very well (new tougher film strength) and should last up to 40 hours except in very hard use or racing. It is very easy to get and at Wally World is $6.25/qt.
-For very hard racing or offshore use and for maximum protection on any boat we have found that Mobil-1 20W-50 V-twin is tops as there is no moly and just a ton of ZDDP for anti-wear. If you are okay with $9.00/qt oil then this is what you ought use and don't look back. Redline 20W-50 and Amsoil 20W-50 Racing are in this same catagory. Once again you should get 40 hours from this oil even if you do run hard.
We have found that K&N and Wix Racing oil filters have an edge on both filtration and flow. I am getting a warm and fuzzy feeling about K&N filters as they just seem to have a very tough case and the build quality is very strong. So if you run hard that is a consideration. Where max flow is needed and the filtration is a bit less of a priority; the Orange Fram Racing Filters are tops for racing where flow counts and the oil is changed after every race anyways.
Outdrives:
RP 75W-90
M-1 75W-90
Amsoil Severe gear 75W-90
All seem to be a notch above Merc HP which is still real good stuff in my books.
Personally I would use M-1 75W-90 changed with every other oil change and a drive shower is a must.
For you fanatics...Both pressure and vaccuum check your outdrive seals with every lube change. If you don't know what you are doing you can ruin the seals...so read up before you try this on your own or you can actually blow a seal doing this.
Hope that helps!
Have a great 2007 boating season!!
I've recently changed boats but still have a case of Amsoil marine 10-40 and Amsoil marine drive lube left over from the old boat. Would these be appropriate for my 496HO/Bravo X? Can I use the 10-40 in my SBC powered tow vehicle if it isn't appropriate for the boat?
11-29-2008, 12:00 PM
#1329
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This guy races and knows his stuff...you will find mostly pure PAO Motul and the upper end Amsoil products in his cupboard. Looks like some Mobil-1 V-win and MXT-4 as well. Amsoil 5W-30 Signature as well. Also, Amsoil 20W50 V-Twin,
The guy knows what works for Racing/HP engines. Looks like it's 99.9% synthetic.
The guy knows what works for Racing/HP engines. Looks like it's 99.9% synthetic.
Second question, how would Valvolene 20W50 racing oil compare with the Amsoil oils noted for my application?
Thanks in advance.
