Marine Lubrication
#1342
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I have 2 issues with the test, First, I can't think of any place in my engine where this type wear senario comes into play and second, the Amsoil still left a scar. Please explain to me the additional life expectency of my engine with an oil that leaves a smaller scar in a test that has no correlation to what is happening inside my engine.
Now if we are testing gear lube, I might say maybe. There is a wiping action in a hypoid application.
I wouldn't change from any quality engine oil, be it petroleum, blend, or full synthetic based on that test. And I sure wouldn't worry if I was using Mobil 1.
My 2 cents.
Ken
Now if we are testing gear lube, I might say maybe. There is a wiping action in a hypoid application.
I wouldn't change from any quality engine oil, be it petroleum, blend, or full synthetic based on that test. And I sure wouldn't worry if I was using Mobil 1.
My 2 cents.
Ken
#1343
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These days I use (personal preferences):
Mobil-1 V-Twin 20W-50 or Motul 15W-50 oils.
M-1 Oil Filters or Amsoil EA
I like Amsoil Severe Gear products
When it comes to grease Mobil-1 or Amsoil.
One general comment is that there are a lot of new synthetic products out there and they are all better than what we had just a few years back.
Want a great reasonabley priced oil for you car or truck?
Autozone sells 0W-30 German Made Castrol which has a VOA of 0W-40 when tested. (It's green in color) and it says Made in Germany on the bottle about $6/qt.
Things are changing fast!
Mobil-1 V-Twin 20W-50 or Motul 15W-50 oils.
M-1 Oil Filters or Amsoil EA
I like Amsoil Severe Gear products
When it comes to grease Mobil-1 or Amsoil.
One general comment is that there are a lot of new synthetic products out there and they are all better than what we had just a few years back.
Want a great reasonabley priced oil for you car or truck?
Autozone sells 0W-30 German Made Castrol which has a VOA of 0W-40 when tested. (It's green in color) and it says Made in Germany on the bottle about $6/qt.
Things are changing fast!
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 12-01-2008 at 03:48 PM.
#1344
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Some gear lubes have too much sulphur additive built into them, which can sometimes have adverse effects on certain metals, especially those used in drive applications. I can't say for sure without info in front of me, but that would be my guess.
#1345
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BUT...it is a great HP product and I see no reason you can not use it.
Personal preference.
#1346
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I was asked for another 20W-50 for racing that is synthetic but has more additives than a racing synthetic:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tro.aspx
or
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...45&subcatID=14
Remember there are 2 grades...Highperformance...and "Racing"
Racing oils are for a single "race" usually. These oils here have more longevity built in.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tro.aspx
or
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...45&subcatID=14
Remember there are 2 grades...Highperformance...and "Racing"
Racing oils are for a single "race" usually. These oils here have more longevity built in.
#1347
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Ken
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I'll keep you posted. I should have my oil analysis results back from my boat hopefully this week. I will try to post them on here. I ran 52 hours on the AMSOIL Series 2000 Racing Oil.
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I will try to post mine as well when I get them on the Amsoil Series 2000 20W50 racing oil @ 35 hours. Unfortunately this will be for a freshly rebuilt engine though I did flush the rebuilt engine first with 15 min 30w oil and filter run/change and then a three hour engine break in procedure oil and filter run/change first. I also have a baseline oil analysis on the fresh oil. I still have enough of this oil for another season so that will likely be more telling.
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One opinion against the Redline product from a drive industry guy was that its consistancy would likely hold wear debris in suspension rather than let it fall out of the way at rest as he would prefer. He noted that this was just an opinion.
Anyone out there with any compoarison test data?