Marine Lubrication
#1652
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Location: Corona, CA
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Well the VR1 isn't a bad oil, it's not comparing apples to apples. The VR1 is not a synthetic oil like Amsoil is and based on the facts of the oil content the Amsoil is going to last longer and do a better job of protecting for whatever amount of hours you have your oil in your engine for. The valvoline will break down a little faster then the Amsoil 20/50 or 10/40. The K & N filter isn't bad if you like stuff made over seas, vs. stuff made in America! Let me know if I can help you out any more.
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aro.aspx
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aro.aspx
#1653
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Not Right, the valvoline is ok stuff, I personally would use the 20w50 over the straight 40 for two reasons, better film strength when hot and faster oil pressure when cold.
Zinc levels are more than enough, you will change your oil before the zinc issue becomes an issue.
I would't worry about the TBN numbers, the fuel purchased today is very. very low in sulfer. Flash point, your Valvoline is good to 470+ no worry, if your oil temp is 470 you will have other major things to worry about, pour point who cares, it's a boat, water is pretty hard at 30F.
My 2 cents.
Ken
Zinc levels are more than enough, you will change your oil before the zinc issue becomes an issue.
I would't worry about the TBN numbers, the fuel purchased today is very. very low in sulfer. Flash point, your Valvoline is good to 470+ no worry, if your oil temp is 470 you will have other major things to worry about, pour point who cares, it's a boat, water is pretty hard at 30F.
My 2 cents.
Ken
#1656
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Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Kidnova;2897665]
I ran the M-1 20/50 V-Twin in my ZZ502 for 4 seasons, with plenty of hard run time. The engine was torn down at about 140 hours and the builder said the internals looked great. So I'm a believer in the V-Twin.
The ZZ502 is now a "ZZ557" with about 200 more HP than before. The M1-V-Twin is a PIA to find. Would the Mobile 1 silver cap in 15/50 be a good choice/substitute? I change oil/filter every +,-20 hrs.
Thanks
With 20hr changes SilverCap would probably suit your needs. The base content and zddp levels are a bit lower I think. But still good stuff. Certainly better than dino oil.
I ran the M-1 20/50 V-Twin in my ZZ502 for 4 seasons, with plenty of hard run time. The engine was torn down at about 140 hours and the builder said the internals looked great. So I'm a believer in the V-Twin.
The ZZ502 is now a "ZZ557" with about 200 more HP than before. The M1-V-Twin is a PIA to find. Would the Mobile 1 silver cap in 15/50 be a good choice/substitute? I change oil/filter every +,-20 hrs.
Thanks
#1657
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Compare them yourself. The data sheets for both products are available. Take a minute and look at both of them. For one example, the AMSOIL grease and 10w-30 beat their products in the 4ball wear scar test by almost half the wear. There are other categories too, but that is just one of them. I'm not saying its a bad product, but, for the price, AMSOIL is just as good, and half to 2/3 the cost.
#1658
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But they do compare 4-ball results to their competitor's products and if they are "ahead" sometimes... as you mention it... may indicate at least a stout anti-wear additive presence in their oils? That could be good?
#1659
Charter Member#568
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What about custom blend oils? Haven't seen any info on that. I have access to someone who says he does custom blends for people and has been doing it for years. What can these people do and what would the be the ideal oil if he could do whatever you wanted?
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Straight bottoms and flat decks
Straight bottoms and flat decks
#1660
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All the mixing I need is done at my favorite pub.
To answer your question for example.....Mobil + Amsoil = Mobsoil (sounds like something that Capone' would use in the getaway car).
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 07-22-2009 at 08:39 PM.