formula31

What do you figure is the best oil to keep flat tappet cams alive? Im not talking break-in. These are already seasoned but Ive heard the latest formulation dont have what it takes to keep the flat tappets alive. The suggestion was to run the GM EOS mixed in with the oil, all the time?

Hydrocruiser

Engine oils, roller cams, flat tappet cams:

Have you heard of a flat tappet cam flattening lobes lately? Why do we seem to be hearing about this more and more?

Here's part of what has happened; The S rated automotive engine oils have gone through a severe reduction in the zinc and phosphorus levels needed for flat tappet cams. The reason for the reduction is zinc and phosphorus poisoned catalytic converters, and the change from flat tappet cams to hydraulic roller cams rendered the anti scuff properties of high levels of zinc and phosphorus less a priority in "daily drivers". Simply put, hydraulic roller cams do not need the zinc and phosphorus flat tappet cams needed.

So what is a flat tappet cam gear head to do?

Well there are a number of options.


-Use C rated heavy duty diesel engine oils, many of these still have high levels of the zinc and phosphorus flat tappet cams need. Some use a a diesel oil for break-in and the last few years it's been Shell Rotella T 15W-40 with a ZDDP additive.

-Use an anti scuff additive like Valvoline SynPower in the gold bottle(at about 1oz per quart)or GM EOS to reach the level of zinc and phosphorus flat tappet cams need.

-Use a good racing synthetic like Amsoil 20W-50 Series 2000 or M-1 20W-50 V-Twin.

-Use a good synthetic diesel engine oil like Amsoil 15W-40 Marine oil. This oil has the added benefit of increased rust protection which is ideal for engines that don't get run regularly and/or get stored.

-Convert to hydraulic or solid roller tappets.

Other parts in an offshore engine need more ZDDP as well such as the main bearings...so that the summation going forward. The amount of ZDDP matters a lot more than many ever knew...


Sound about right?

audacity

some of it.

how long is long?...mobil 1 will work just fine on that flat tappet.

'they' (you know who they are!LOL)say syn's are too slippery to allow the them to rotate on the lobe/in the bore...if that was true then why would they wear at all??? ...they wouldn't! not buy'n it at all....if this was true then why wouldn't it do the same thing in a overhead cam shim and bucket application in todays hi-perf motorcycle engines.

mrhorsepower1

Running Rich especially on a brand new engine will do alot of damage. When a EFI or carb is set up a the rich side it washes the cylinders of oil. Wiping the face of the ring out. You can also do damage to intake guides as well. When I raun my engines on the dyno I lean out the fuel during break in process. Then richen it back up to make power tests. Richness will do as much or more damage then being lean. The proper tune up is critcal.

Hydrocruiser

Gasoline in oil especially in blower rigs where you get blowby...is the fastest way to toast an engine...more than 5% gas and your engine is cooked. That's 8 ounces in 5 qts...your upper engine will go first...it happens much more frequently than one would think...running a bit lean is not a bad way to go. That's why some change every 10 hours if running hard..

formula31

Your contradicting yourself. These big blower motor run so rich as to have to change oil every 10 hrs due to fuel dilution but their not hurting their engines? Please explain, just trying to learn.

Hydrocruiser

IN a non-blower motor running rich can containate oil faster than many realize. In a blower motor the blow-by will put gas in the oil no matter if you run rich or lean...that's from the Sterling guys..

Sorry if I was unclear..

Hydrocruiser

Happy New Year! ...near 10,000 hits...

SeaRay Jim

40 more to go!!

Hydrocruiser

Hey we need 40 more hits in the next 50 minutes..can we do it?