docmanrich37

Been told i should change oil brands from merc to mobil1 since i installed whipples on my 525's.Turning a few more rpms and adding boost.Should I and what do you reccomend ?

minxguy

Any good motorcycle specfic lubricant. Not a rebranded passenger car motor oil (PCMO). I would suggest Spectro Golden 4 20w50. Ken

Cignificant

OK folks, I've been reviewing everything I can about this subject and want to put some of it to use. Here's my situation.

Last year I was running 502 blower motors. Stock GM 6-qt oil pan, stock oil pumps, large oil coolers, -10An lines all the way through (No 90degree turns), Permacool oil t'stats, water crossovers with no t-stat (water temps never even registered high enough to show on my gauge), M1 15w50 oil, and Napa Gold (Wix) filters. Oil pressure was always in the 55# range at cruise, and oil temps (on filter pad before cooler) would be in the 215-230 range. At WOT they'd spike to 250-260.

This year I've built up the engines to 540ci, and removed the blowers. High volume oil pumps (Moroso 22160), Stainless Marine t-stat kit (140# t-stat) for cooling, straight 30wt oil for break-in using Napa "black" filters. Nothing else has changed. I water tested yesterday and here's the results:

Port engine - water temperature peaked at 160, oil temp would hit 230 at 3000rpm, and then climb higher as RPMs increased. Oil pressure at 55-60# at cruise and above.

Star engine - water temperature peaked at 140, oil temp would hit 215 at 3000rpm, and then climb higher as RPMs increased. Oil pressure at 55-60# at cruise and above.

In both cases I never let the oil temp exceed 260# - I'd back off the throttles and the temp would drop accordingly. I can't running over about 3300rpm for extended periods of time (a few miles) without tempertaures getting too high. So here's my plan of attack. Tell me if it sounds reasonble.

1) Differences in water temps may be caused by some type of blockage, so I'm going to backflush the cooling system. If I can get water temps to be the same for both engines, then I'm going to assume that oil temps will be closer to the same.

2) I need to "dial in" the carbs and timing to make sure I'm not running lean and/or wrong timing. I was running 10 degrees BTDC and changed one engine to 8, but that didn't seem to have an impact. (Any suggestions on where it should be?)

3) Increase in oil temps may be caused by running a t-stat this year in my cooling system (increased engine temp = increased oil temp). Possibly combined with the high volume pump trying to pump oil through a standard volume filter.

So I'm going to convert over to the HP6A filters and go back to my M1 15w50 synth oil now that the engines are broke in (@ 2 hours). Any other suggestions at this point?

gsmith9898

anybody know the part number for the wix oil filter for the 525efi ?

vandeano

My oil gauge temp would go to 300+ after WOT. So I bought a big oil cooler from Teague and there was no difference. So I went and bought a infrared temp gun and took temp from oil pan and filter and even the oil lines and the gun never read anything higher then 240 even when gauge read 300. So my gauge was miss leading me the hole time. Plus I did the hand check. If oil was actually 300 degress, would I be able to hold my hand on the oil filter?

minxguy

230 degrees is not hot for engine oil. The oil is tested in the lab at 210 for viscosity. 300 degrees now that is getting hot. Ken

Wobble

Sounds like a mismatched sender. Make sure you get one made by the same people as your gauge and then verify it by dunking it in boiling water, should read about 212. I ran into the same problem. New sender from Gaffrig solved the problem.

Wobble

I have been running M-1 v-twin 20/50 for the past year, better oil pressure at hot idle and wot, not whipple charged but I run hard.

slider1

After reviewing these posts, I'd like to run Mobil 1 15w/50, but I'm I've heard about some people 'springing' oil leaks, in high hour engines. My 1999 502efi mercruiser has 220 hrs. Is it safe to start using a synthetic?? Thanks...

Phazar454Mag

You mention Amsoil Marine 15W-40 as #3. Why not Amsoil MCV or ARO 20W-50 ? I would think that the higher viscosity should protect the engine better in case it is run hard. Any specific properties of the Amsoil Marine 15W-40 that makes it superior compared to their MCV or ARO 20W-50 oils ?