Hydrocruiser

Asmoil ships world wide ya know.

Just get some of their 20W-50 and you will be good to go. That is what my friends in Italy do.

Hydrocruiser

Well guys...I got an e-mail from a fellow in Michigan who has run his 502's 600 hours on M-1 15W-50 before needing a teardown.

After 600 hours of brutal offshore use..in a 24' Avenger...the bearings looked like new....the crank was in great shape as well. Not bad?

SkiDoc

What oil should be used to winterize motors? I have used Mobil V-twin this season with approx 30 hrs. I hate to spend the money to let this sit over the winter, but I will if there is clear reason to do so. The oil still looks clear with no gas smell. Motors Teague 575's, K&N Filter.

minxguy

KYEE, change the oil as you would normally with what ever oil you plan on running next season. After you change, run the motors long enough to get the oil hot and all pumped into the lifters and such. There is no need to change in the spring. Don't let your engines sit with old oil over winter storage. In the soring splash the boat and use it. Change it again before you store it next year. Ken

Hydrocruiser

Sounds like you can leave it in...run it a bit in the spring to brun off any condensation and then change when ready..

...I did it both ways...this is not a biggie..

bcarpman

First of all, thanks for all the great info. It's taken me several weeks to go through all the posts in this thread, but I've learned a lot!!

There was a short discusion in the thread about oil thermostats. At one point Hydro posted a link to a combination cooler/thermostat, but at $500 it's a bit pricey.

Here's my issue: 454 being rebuilt from 330hp to around 430hp. I run in varried water temps, from 50F to 80F, and also varied running where I might never leave idle, or I might WOT it for 15 minutes.

I wouldn't mind upgrading the oil cooler, but then I worry about overcooling the oil such that it never comes up to temp, or really slow warmups.

Would an oil thermostat be a good idea? If so, does anyone have one they really like? Any more thoughts on running with oil that's too cold? Hydro stated that vapor not burning off at low temps was a myth. Any more thoughts on that?

How many of you run Oil temp guages? I've been surprised that I can't even find one to match my current Faria gauges.

thanks

Hydrocruiser

Vapor burns off when it hits "hot spots" along the engine lube path...the temp gauge does not show these "hot spots"...so going by the gauge temp to determine vapor burn-off potential is misleading.

Don't worry..your engine gets real hot inside to vaporize tiny amounts of condensation continuously...trust me..

bcarpman

I'm just having problems with that theory from two perspectives: First, I've seen a lot of condinsate in auto engines that were never adequatley warmed up, and second the hot spots are buried in the engine where the evaporated water will just go back into the oil as soon as it hits cooler oil, as it has no other place to go. In order to be burned off, it has to boil off somewhere it can escape from the engine, such as around the valvetrain.

Not saying you're not correct, but I've never seen this before. Where did you see this? You seem to have really good factual evidance for everything else you post?

Thanks

Wobble

I also have a problem with that statement, I have run a lot of jetboats with big cams, we have to inject water into the headers whenever the law is around or to just keep the headers from turning blue. Steam from the headers gets back into the motor through the exhaust ports and will milk the oil over time.

We have found the only way to keep it from getting milked is to get the oil pan temp up in the low 200 range.

Hydrocruiser

You know those water separator gasoline filters on your boat?...they can more than handle condensation...if you are sucking water in from a hot cam then you have got a lot of water in the oil.

At any rate keeping oil cool is important and running too hot is bad. Usually factory settings are about right.

A really long WOT run does wonders.