Trouble Removing my Tilt cylinder pin
#1
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Trouble Removing my Tilt cylinder pin
Hey Guys,
This is the first time I am removing the outdrive on my Volvo Penta SX. Im trying to take out the pin that goes through the whole setup and bolts up to the tilt cylinders on the outside. The guy who had the boat before me did not take care of the boat at all and it seems that the pin is completely frozen in place. I've been pounding on it with a 2X4 and a dead weight hammer for hours with no luck! Am I missing something? The bolts are off & there should be anything holding it in? I'm attaching a breakdown picture so maybe someone can see something I'm not. The part I am referring to is # 48.
Are there any tricks to removing these things?
Thanks
~Dave
This is the first time I am removing the outdrive on my Volvo Penta SX. Im trying to take out the pin that goes through the whole setup and bolts up to the tilt cylinders on the outside. The guy who had the boat before me did not take care of the boat at all and it seems that the pin is completely frozen in place. I've been pounding on it with a 2X4 and a dead weight hammer for hours with no luck! Am I missing something? The bolts are off & there should be anything holding it in? I'm attaching a breakdown picture so maybe someone can see something I'm not. The part I am referring to is # 48.
Are there any tricks to removing these things?
Thanks
~Dave
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Re: Trouble Removing my Tilt cylinder pin
Nothing holding it in other than corrosion. Stainless things into aluminum things are never happy in the presence of electrolyte (salt water isa great one). You might try a "little" bit of heat, be careful though on the aluminum parts. I have had the best luck using a penetrating oil called "PB Blaster" oppose to other penetrating oils. Soak it for as long and a soften as you can allow your patience.
#4
Re: Trouble Removing my Tilt cylinder pin
The Vovlvo pins like to get stuck, they don't have as much clearance as the Merc's do. The best thing you can do is heat it up beat it out, If you can get a coupling nut (a nut that is about 1 inch deep) you can thread it all the way down and beat on it and not destroy the threads.
#5
Re: Trouble Removing my Tilt cylinder pin
I second the PB blast. Give it a squirt as often as you can for days. You might try turning the pin first to get it loose before beating it too much. Also, second the coupling nut.
#6
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Re: Trouble Removing my Tilt cylinder pin
Believe it or not, tincture of iodine, the brown stuff from the drug store will decay aluminum oxide, the white stuff locking the pin in place. its not fast but it has been used for decades to un freeze aluminum fittings etc. If you have access to a 6 volt carbon arc it can be used to safely heat the pin without risk of flame damage to the drive or hull. if not, get a dead d cell battery, plain old cheap type, cut it open and remove the core carefully. use a 3/8 compression union fitting and insert it in one end. hook a booster cable to it and one side of a 6 volt battery. other cable to negative post and one end of the pin. hold the carbon rod against the other end of the pin and the carbon will heat up thusly heating the pin. dont use 12v as the carbon will go white hot and melt the stainless.
#7
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Re: Trouble Removing my Tilt cylinder pin
Originally Posted by Airpacker
Believe it or not, tincture of iodine, the brown stuff from the drug store will decay aluminum oxide, the white stuff locking the pin in place. its not fast but it has been used for decades to un freeze aluminum fittings etc. If you have access to a 6 volt carbon arc it can be used to safely heat the pin without risk of flame damage to the drive or hull. if not, get a dead d cell battery, plain old cheap type, cut it open and remove the core carefully. use a 3/8 compression union fitting and insert it in one end. hook a booster cable to it and one side of a 6 volt battery. other cable to negative post and one end of the pin. hold the carbon rod against the other end of the pin and the carbon will heat up thusly heating the pin. dont use 12v as the carbon will go white hot and melt the stainless.
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If you have access to a 6 volt carbon arc it can be used to safely heat the pin without risk of flame damage to the drive or hull. if not, get a dead d cell battery, plain old cheap type, cut it open and remove the core carefully. use a 3/8 compression union fitting and insert it in one end. hook a booster cable to it and one side of a 6 volt battery. other cable to negative post and one end of the pin. hold the carbon rod against the other end of the pin and the carbon will heat up thusly heating the pin. dont use 12v as the carbon will go white hot and melt the stainless.