Sea Pumps - How much volume?
#11
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Make it easy, try it with 2 ice cubes, why ruin a couple of nice steaks ![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Any bets on the result? Trust me on this, it's just not true. They make the math look complicated, but the amount of heat energy (commonly measured in BTU's or calories) needed to change the temperature of a given object is the mass of the object x the specific heat of the object. So happens that water has a specific heat of 1, and 1 BTU is the amount of heat it takes to raise the temp of 1 lb of water 1 degree.
![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Any bets on the result? Trust me on this, it's just not true. They make the math look complicated, but the amount of heat energy (commonly measured in BTU's or calories) needed to change the temperature of a given object is the mass of the object x the specific heat of the object. So happens that water has a specific heat of 1, and 1 BTU is the amount of heat it takes to raise the temp of 1 lb of water 1 degree.
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Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
#12
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Originally Posted by Mbam
I respectfully take issue with the idea that too much water flow will reduce heat transfer. What you say is true if the goal is to heat the water, but all we care about is cooling the engine. Increased flow will remove more BTU's. The net temp rise in the water is not as great, but there is more of it.
#13
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i may be slow,,,,but am i understanding someone is making the argument that it takes longer for a piece of frozen meat or an ice cube to defrost in hot water then in cold water?
#14
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Originally Posted by Catagory5
i may be slow,,,,but am i understanding someone is making the argument that it takes longer for a piece of frozen meat or an ice cube to defrost in hot water then in cold water?
Now for the best part of all this, it's all tottally irrelevant. The temperature differential between the engine and the cooling water will never be great enough to make a diffrence, the diffrence in time to remaove heat from an object based upon the temperature differetial is so small that an engine would have to be about 5000 degrees before raw water failed to cool it becuase it was flowing too fast and at that point metal would no longer be solid anyway. An engine will never get hot enough that water flow rate has any affect on cooling abilty.
Last edited by hillbilly24; 10-06-2005 at 01:12 AM.
#15
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Originally Posted by Mbam
Make it easy, try it with 2 ice cubes, why ruin a couple of nice steaks ![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Any bets on the result? Trust me on this, it's just not true. They make the math look complicated, but the amount of heat energy (commonly measured in BTU's or calories) needed to change the temperature of a given object is the mass of the object x the specific heat of the object. So happens that water has a specific heat of 1, and 1 BTU is the amount of heat it takes to raise the temp of 1 lb of water 1 degree.
![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Any bets on the result? Trust me on this, it's just not true. They make the math look complicated, but the amount of heat energy (commonly measured in BTU's or calories) needed to change the temperature of a given object is the mass of the object x the specific heat of the object. So happens that water has a specific heat of 1, and 1 BTU is the amount of heat it takes to raise the temp of 1 lb of water 1 degree.
#16
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Jules, I am running the kpm body and impellor with my stock merc front cover and pulley. It was alot more work than I expected to install the retrofit/rebuild kit but regardless it is in place and it works. My questions are the motor seems to run 20-30degrees warmer than it did with stock pump from 3500 rpm's up but I also changed the power output when installing the pump. I'm running aprox 950 hp, I was running around 750hp before,I'm using a simple crossover that I have always used in the past and plumbing is the same with no added restrictions. I'm still sucking water through the stock pick-up in the outdrive,same outdrive so the net positive suction head distance should be the same. How does sucking water through the drive compare to using a external pickup?Would I still have this 90 plus psi at 85-95mph on the suction side?I'm concerned my innercooler(which is cooled by water tee'd off motor) might be getting hotter water than I'd like it to when engine temp climbs. The temp is stable though,it isn't like it gets hotter and hotter when it climbs,its just it climbs from its normal 100 degrees operating temp to 120-130 degrees. I personally think that I should probably just get a external pickup just for the innercooler so its water flow increases proportional to boat speed and engine would get benefit of all cooling water cooling it. I'm curious how returning to a stock merc pump would compare but it's extremely difficult to get to pump in my boat,any input would be greatly aprecciated,Smitty
I also figured this would act as a poor man's dump valve.
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Same problem here. I watch the large amount of water being dumped from the intercooler at idle and coming out of the exhaust with the tail pipes still cool to touch. Engine temp never gets over 110 or 120. I feel my stock pump is all that I need.