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Old 10-05-2005, 09:13 PM
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Default Re: Sea Pumps - How much volume?

Make it easy, try it with 2 ice cubes, why ruin a couple of nice steaks

Any bets on the result? Trust me on this, it's just not true. They make the math look complicated, but the amount of heat energy (commonly measured in BTU's or calories) needed to change the temperature of a given object is the mass of the object x the specific heat of the object. So happens that water has a specific heat of 1, and 1 BTU is the amount of heat it takes to raise the temp of 1 lb of water 1 degree.
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:23 PM
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Default Re: Sea Pumps - How much volume?

Originally Posted by Mbam
I respectfully take issue with the idea that too much water flow will reduce heat transfer. What you say is true if the goal is to heat the water, but all we care about is cooling the engine. Increased flow will remove more BTU's. The net temp rise in the water is not as great, but there is more of it.
I agree ,Smitty
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Old 10-05-2005, 10:52 PM
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Default Re: Sea Pumps - How much volume?

i may be slow,,,,but am i understanding someone is making the argument that it takes longer for a piece of frozen meat or an ice cube to defrost in hot water then in cold water?
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Old 10-05-2005, 11:53 PM
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Default Re: Sea Pumps - How much volume?

Originally Posted by Catagory5
i may be slow,,,,but am i understanding someone is making the argument that it takes longer for a piece of frozen meat or an ice cube to defrost in hot water then in cold water?
Actually that's not what I siad at all, what I said was that it takes the pot with the frozen object and hot water longer to equalize, not tdefrost or melt the object that will obviosly happen faster. The pot with the frozen object an cold water will reach the median temprature between the two slightly faster. When You run cold water through an engine it absorbs heat faster the warmer the water gets becuase the temperature of the water becomes closer to that of the engine block. The # of BTU's it takes to heat or cool any molecule is dependent upon the current temperature of the molecule and the temperature of the heat source. You actually never do "cool" anything, you can only add or remove heat from something.

Now for the best part of all this, it's all tottally irrelevant. The temperature differential between the engine and the cooling water will never be great enough to make a diffrence, the diffrence in time to remaove heat from an object based upon the temperature differetial is so small that an engine would have to be about 5000 degrees before raw water failed to cool it becuase it was flowing too fast and at that point metal would no longer be solid anyway. An engine will never get hot enough that water flow rate has any affect on cooling abilty.

Last edited by hillbilly24; 10-06-2005 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 10-05-2005, 11:55 PM
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Default Re: Sea Pumps - How much volume?

Originally Posted by Mbam
Make it easy, try it with 2 ice cubes, why ruin a couple of nice steaks

Any bets on the result? Trust me on this, it's just not true. They make the math look complicated, but the amount of heat energy (commonly measured in BTU's or calories) needed to change the temperature of a given object is the mass of the object x the specific heat of the object. So happens that water has a specific heat of 1, and 1 BTU is the amount of heat it takes to raise the temp of 1 lb of water 1 degree.
Mark I would never use steaks to begin with, I would use the girlfreind's Boca Burgers, I hate those thing being in my freezer anyway and I wouodn't feel like I was wasting anything that way.
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Old 06-12-2007, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by articfriends
Jules, I am running the kpm body and impellor with my stock merc front cover and pulley. It was alot more work than I expected to install the retrofit/rebuild kit but regardless it is in place and it works. My questions are the motor seems to run 20-30degrees warmer than it did with stock pump from 3500 rpm's up but I also changed the power output when installing the pump. I'm running aprox 950 hp, I was running around 750hp before,I'm using a simple crossover that I have always used in the past and plumbing is the same with no added restrictions. I'm still sucking water through the stock pick-up in the outdrive,same outdrive so the net positive suction head distance should be the same. How does sucking water through the drive compare to using a external pickup?Would I still have this 90 plus psi at 85-95mph on the suction side?I'm concerned my innercooler(which is cooled by water tee'd off motor) might be getting hotter water than I'd like it to when engine temp climbs. The temp is stable though,it isn't like it gets hotter and hotter when it climbs,its just it climbs from its normal 100 degrees operating temp to 120-130 degrees. I personally think that I should probably just get a external pickup just for the innercooler so its water flow increases proportional to boat speed and engine would get benefit of all cooling water cooling it. I'm curious how returning to a stock merc pump would compare but it's extremely difficult to get to pump in my boat,any input would be greatly aprecciated,Smitty
Smitty, I put a tee right after my pump outlet to my intercooler. It was coming off the crossover after the fuel and oil cooler so I know I was getting warmer water. You've got this sh*t figured out so i'm assuming you have absolutely no room to do this.
I also figured this would act as a poor man's dump valve.
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Old 06-12-2007, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by WETTE VETTE
. I do run an Imco lower and dump a hell of a lot of water through 2 dump valves to maintain 25 PSI maximum pressure.
Craig
Same problem here. I watch the large amount of water being dumped from the intercooler at idle and coming out of the exhaust with the tail pipes still cool to touch. Engine temp never gets over 110 or 120. I feel my stock pump is all that I need.
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