Gasket cement
#1
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Going to replace my intake w/ a Edel. Rpm and the instuctions say to use #9300 gasgacinch. Is that the same crap as Permatex gasket sealer? Sealer is to be used on the intake gasket. Anyone??
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Maybe a little dab at the block/head joint corner. Other than that, why use a sealer - isn't that what a gasket does?
I can't imagine using the stuff. It gets into everything. You can not control how it flows, especially on the blind side. I've taken engines apart that had half of the pick-up screen plugged with this crap. Why anybody uses it is beyond me.
I just bought my boat this summer. I decided to take all three engines apart to freshen them up. What did I find? The last idiot that freshened them up even used the stuff on the blower gaskets!. It was all squished out into the intake runners. I'm pulling them out over Christmas - I am certain I'll find it in the pick up screen.
I can't imagine using the stuff. It gets into everything. You can not control how it flows, especially on the blind side. I've taken engines apart that had half of the pick-up screen plugged with this crap. Why anybody uses it is beyond me.
I just bought my boat this summer. I decided to take all three engines apart to freshen them up. What did I find? The last idiot that freshened them up even used the stuff on the blower gaskets!. It was all squished out into the intake runners. I'm pulling them out over Christmas - I am certain I'll find it in the pick up screen.
#3
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gasketcinch and silicone arent the same thing, gasketcich is aslo known as high-tac.all it realy does is hold the gasket in place while you set the intake on, it's more like an adhesive then a sealer. You do want to use silicone on both ends of the intake though where it meets the block, don't use the rubber pieces that come with the gasket set,they never seal right. Just lay doen a nice tall bead of silicone before you set the intake on.
#4
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Why would an adhesive be needed? Gravity holds everything down fine. Inless you have really shaky hands? Lay the rubber gaskets down, set the intake gaskets in the grooves, set the intake straight down.
I disagree with the non use of the rubber seals. If there is a leak after proper install then block or head machining were performed and appropriate manifold machining was not. The rubber seals even have either little buttons or skirts to keep them in place.
If you do the silicone replacement for the rubber seals, then apply it correctly. Completely clean surface, apply a bead of proper height and width, let it set up over night, then install the manifold. But by doing this, there still is nothing to hold the silicone in place, other than the minor attachment properties of the silicone and the clamping force on the reslience of the silicone. Applying silicone and immediately clamping down on it immediately negates the usefulness of silicone - its resiliency or springiness, after it has been allowed to set. If you squish the silicone out before it sets up, the only seal affected is by the gluing properties of the silicone. And it doesn't work well as a glue. Silicone does not grow while drying. And when you squeeze the wet silicone out, it gets into things.
I disagree with the non use of the rubber seals. If there is a leak after proper install then block or head machining were performed and appropriate manifold machining was not. The rubber seals even have either little buttons or skirts to keep them in place.
If you do the silicone replacement for the rubber seals, then apply it correctly. Completely clean surface, apply a bead of proper height and width, let it set up over night, then install the manifold. But by doing this, there still is nothing to hold the silicone in place, other than the minor attachment properties of the silicone and the clamping force on the reslience of the silicone. Applying silicone and immediately clamping down on it immediately negates the usefulness of silicone - its resiliency or springiness, after it has been allowed to set. If you squish the silicone out before it sets up, the only seal affected is by the gluing properties of the silicone. And it doesn't work well as a glue. Silicone does not grow while drying. And when you squeeze the wet silicone out, it gets into things.
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been building motors 25 years and have to agree with hillbilly, personaly I use aviation permatex or mercury perfect seal on the gaskets and rtv copper or black on the ends and throw away the rubber or cork end pieces never had a leake or a problem, I have seen people do it with out sealers and have seen them leake at the water crossover, up to you how you do it I just dont belive in comebacks...
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I always use gasgacinch on head gaskets. A little goes a long way. What I noticed is that you can get away with water psi spikes untill you get your engine water psi adjusted. Definitly throw out the rbber or cork end gaskets that people use to seal intakes and use a permatex rtv for sure.
Last edited by Cam-shaft; 12-06-2005 at 07:37 PM.
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Nothing wrong with using silicones and other sealers and gaskets replacers - if used correctly.
Other than aircraft engines, where generally the rebuilders understand how and where to use these materials, I have yet to disassemble a previously rebuilt engine that the rebuilder had used the materials correctly. Every engine had it in the pick up. Every engine had at least one tube too much of the stuff applied. Ooze everywhere.
Earned my A&P in 1977. You don't get comebacks with aircraft engines; a failure often results in a rather hard landing.
I'm sure you professional rebuilders are using these materials correctly - it is the amateurs that I am commenting to. Better for them to have a small oil leak than to grenade an engine because of a silicone-plugged pick up.
Other than aircraft engines, where generally the rebuilders understand how and where to use these materials, I have yet to disassemble a previously rebuilt engine that the rebuilder had used the materials correctly. Every engine had it in the pick up. Every engine had at least one tube too much of the stuff applied. Ooze everywhere.
Earned my A&P in 1977. You don't get comebacks with aircraft engines; a failure often results in a rather hard landing.
I'm sure you professional rebuilders are using these materials correctly - it is the amateurs that I am commenting to. Better for them to have a small oil leak than to grenade an engine because of a silicone-plugged pick up.
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gasgacinch is the best sealer i have used. i use it on all my engine gaskets but the oil pan. i use to use it on copper head gaskets in my 2 stroke drag bike which was very high comp. never a leak on any paper gasket i ever used it on. give it a try. its now sold under the edelbrock brand name as well.
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Thanks for the comments. Gasgacinch is what I'll use for the intake gasket. It has been years (70's) since I have used the rubber end seals. I use black rtv and been successful with that application. I did pickup a few hints in your comments. THANKS
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I disagree that you dont get comebacks with aviation engines. In the 20+ years I have been in that business I have seen work on piston engines that could be deemed unconsiounable given the risks involved with failure. By the way some aviation engines only use thread and sealer to join case halves.
Last edited by migpilot; 12-07-2005 at 08:23 AM.