Programmable knock control systems
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Price-wise, I think they run about the same.
The Anson is a knock gauge.
The J&S is an ignition module with rev limiter, a knock detector that retards only the knocking cylinders, and a boost retard unit, all in one.
The Anson is a knock gauge.
The J&S is an ignition module with rev limiter, a knock detector that retards only the knocking cylinders, and a boost retard unit, all in one.
#22
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John, if I want to let my existing MSD box handle spark and rev limiting, let the Fast ECU handle the start up and boost retard, is there a marine compatable unit that will cover the knock retard. Just in case I push the motor a little to hard, get some bad gas, or anything else that could cause the motor to detinate. I hate to spend the money on the marine unit and not need, or use all of the features.
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GPM:
If you don't go near salt water, you could use our automotive V.O. This unit is not totally sealed, and it deletes the onboard two bar MAP sensor and boost retard software.
This unit will need an input from the FAST's MAP signal wire. Note that the unit uses load, RPM, crank position, and background noise level to screen for knock.
We recommend our V.1 unit for carbureted engines, since it includes the two bar MAP sensor. Without it, the unit would have no way to sense load.
Some car guys "cheap out" and get the V.0 unit anyway, and simply tie the wire that would normally connect to an external MAP sensor to 5v, simulating high engine load, enabling the knock detector.
If you don't go near salt water, you could use our automotive V.O. This unit is not totally sealed, and it deletes the onboard two bar MAP sensor and boost retard software.
This unit will need an input from the FAST's MAP signal wire. Note that the unit uses load, RPM, crank position, and background noise level to screen for knock.
We recommend our V.1 unit for carbureted engines, since it includes the two bar MAP sensor. Without it, the unit would have no way to sense load.
Some car guys "cheap out" and get the V.0 unit anyway, and simply tie the wire that would normally connect to an external MAP sensor to 5v, simulating high engine load, enabling the knock detector.
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Originally Posted by John_at_J&S
GPM:
If you don't go near salt water, you could use our automotive V.O. This unit is not totally sealed, and it deletes the onboard two bar MAP sensor and boost retard software.
This unit will need an input from the FAST's MAP signal wire. Note that the unit uses load, RPM, crank position, and background noise level to screen for knock.
We recommend our V.1 unit for carbureted engines, since it includes the two bar MAP sensor. Without it, the unit would have no way to sense load.
Some car guys "cheap out" and get the V.0 unit anyway, and simply tie the wire that would normally connect to an external MAP sensor to 5v, simulating high engine load, enabling the knock detector.
If you don't go near salt water, you could use our automotive V.O. This unit is not totally sealed, and it deletes the onboard two bar MAP sensor and boost retard software.
This unit will need an input from the FAST's MAP signal wire. Note that the unit uses load, RPM, crank position, and background noise level to screen for knock.
We recommend our V.1 unit for carbureted engines, since it includes the two bar MAP sensor. Without it, the unit would have no way to sense load.
Some car guys "cheap out" and get the V.0 unit anyway, and simply tie the wire that would normally connect to an external MAP sensor to 5v, simulating high engine load, enabling the knock detector.
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GPM:
The automotive units cannot be fully sealed. There are switches, control knobs, and connectors on the front panel, with exposed solder joints, etc.
In the marine units, the electronics are basically in a can filled with epoxy.
The automotive units cannot be fully sealed. There are switches, control knobs, and connectors on the front panel, with exposed solder joints, etc.
In the marine units, the electronics are basically in a can filled with epoxy.
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Hey John at J&S, what a coincidence I was mentioning this product on a thread at Hotboat.com under blower motors, topic is turbo motor timing. Maybe you can sign on over there, and shed some light on how effective this product is? I run a carb'd Whipple HP500(currently with a HI-6M) and was looking at your product pretty closely. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by HP350SC; 01-26-2006 at 11:49 PM.