mopower

Great idea BUT Innovate warns that operating the engine with the o2 sensor NOT POWERED UP will cause it to be damaged . I don't know how valid their statement is up I always make sure my powers on before running the engine. I have forgotten a few times for a short distance with no problem .

nordic95

Do you have the hand held unit from innovator with the record feature and all?I also heard the wide band sensors do have to be heated while the engine is running or they will load up and not work.I would have to mount two guages then on the dash.Sunnit Racing sells a complete kit for about 150.00 with a small guage,wire harness,and sending unit.It does not record nor is it made to be moved from car to car But I think it will work.I would like to monitor engines while under way.I have two 502s being built as we speak and its just to much money not to have running right.They are going to be dyno tuned,but I still would feel better seeing whats going on in the boat.

vonwolske

Swage-lok company makes a stainless steel neverseize compound called Silver Goop that is very good. It has nickel in it and maybe even silver and cost a lot. But a small dab will do the job. I used it in incinertators that would run red hot and the stainless steel bolts could be easily unbolted. With out it, they were impossible to get off without destroying the bolt and nut.
Swage-lok also has some aluminum favorable compound called Blue Goop.

There are zinc based never sieze compounds similar price to copper stuff. Generally, never ever put red metal, eg., copper, brass into white metal, eg., aluminum or zinc. Galvanic corrosion will cause the bolt to seize in the hole even with the use of Never Seize.

Navy uses a teflon based never sieze called Tef-gel? but it is not for temps above approx 400 F. This may be your best bet.

I use copper Never Seize on any steel to steel threads. I Also use it as an electrical joint compound rather than Alconox. This is not on the can recommendations, but it sure solved some problems on my skid steer and multi teminal Molex type connectors on the boat.

Correct torque recommendations are reduced due to the slipperyness of the metal parts during tighening.

mopower

Mine is the handheld or in my case Velcro held .
About six months after I got this on I found the ones you're talking about . Wish I had two of them instead. I paid around $350 for mine and like you I'd rather have two

GOODT

Not to sound ignorant but.... lets see navy search ect .... or just buy merc 101 lets be real.... merc 101 works great no dissimilar metals in it, no worries you guys are over engineering it just to try to prove a point, be real no anti seize that simple, no worry, still say if one of my guys use it they will be looking for a job tomorrow.... end of story

Lmarth

You guys have got me to really thinking about the mess I got into this last fall where the lids on my Marine Machine sea strainers seized on the buckets. The lids are aluminum and the buckets are stainless. The anti-seize I had been using looked like it had copper particles in it.

GOODT

Lmarth thats what happens, dissimilar metals in marine apps dont work I have fought with many a drive ect the the mech had used anti seize on mounting bolts or cap bolts ect................

formula31

Ill post the right never sieze to use when I get home friday. Its silver, no copper.

Lmarth

The brown anti- seize I had been using was brown with what looked like copper filings in it. I suspect that it was just fine for ferrous metals. I since bought a couple of 8 oz bottles of Permatex anti-seize that is gray with what looks like aluminum filings. I'll check out the Merc 101 when I get a chance. This has been an interesting thread.

nordic95

Interesting but confusing.I think I'm just going to take Goodt's advice and use the merc. 101.I just ordered some from stern to stern.So I am assuming I can use 101 on stainless bolts into aluminum and also steel bolts into aluminum?Does anyone have any input on what Mopower has done to incorporate an O2 sensor and gage into tuning his carburated engine.I am hoping to use a plate like he did but I will run two gages up to the dash and mount them in a pod so hopefully it will look like a factory install.Any other ideas?